Thanks, it is such a great feeling thinking where most started and getting to this point. Thanks for watching!

Thank you very much!

I was thinkin the same thing.. I see too many “restored” cars tho with all sorts of screwed up looking panel gaps where the trunk or hood meet. Or a hood that’s slightly raised on one side and doesn’t lie flat. That’s just lazy.. however it seems that’s the least of a buyers worry these days. The stuff my families body shop has seen from people buying classic cars from auction are very expensive nightmares. They look so great when you first get a gander.. you get under it and we’ve seen sections of frame rail made out of bondo.. bondo door panels that are shaped even yet have zero metal anywhere. The worst was when someone used a dent puller tack AS A WELD. Yep..

You are welcome thank you for watching and the kind words.

Thank you very much I appreciate you following along.

I appreciate you following along thank you!

Thank you and good luck on your project really glad it was helpful

Thanks a lot

Thank you very much I really appreciate that!

Thats great to hear the videos might help out good luck on your 70 build. I also am in the process of doing a 70 Cuda currently.

Thanks a lot, check back in about a week I am working a hopefully a better updated video right now on gapping e body cars.

Thank you

Thank you very much I am glad you enjoyed it

Thank you very much

You are welcome and thank you!

Thank you

You're welcome thanks for the feedback!

Thank you very much for the kind words and subscribing it really means a lot again thank you!

Thanks a lot appreciate you checking it out.

You are 100% right and thank you very much for the kid words and watching!

thanks

Thank you and good luck with your Chevelle

I really appreciate it!

Thank you

Thank you and glad to hear!

Thank you very much!

Thank you

Thank you!

Thank you

thanks

Greetings, thank you for subscribing and watching glad it helped.

Thanks a lot and yes less filler is the goal. Good luck on your Cuda a little cutting and welding and it will save you lots of headaches down the road.

Thank you for watching and Carthage North Carolina

Thank you very much! I have been messing and around hot rods my whole life so mostly trial and error. I have spent many years racing and building race cars so most of my fabrication has been learned doing that consistently. I started restoring more of flip cars in my early 20's as a hobby along with my own stuff, then worked on friends/family cars and the hobby over the years has turned into the business it is now. I am always trying to build on my skillset and be better with each project so self motivation has some to do with how I work. Thanks for checking out my videos also.

That's a great trick thanks I will do that next time

You welcome and send me an email to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com Ill see if I can help you out.

So sometimes I will drill a 1/8 hole and align the panels back up and that hole would be covered by a bolt or sometimes I just realign. It honestly depends how hard the panels are to get where they go. I also make sure any shims are labeled as I am removing them so its easier to align. Saying that I am working on the second part of the body work video on this car. Its been on the friends and family plan so taking a while but I will try and cover my process in that video how I go about finishing it to try and show you how I paint them to avoid damage as much as possible.

Thanks, Rick!

Haha Yes you are correct I will take that as a huge compliment, thanks a lot for watching and the feedback.

Thank you and yes for the most part I use some version of this process depending what the owner is looking for. Some are more then happy with how the car started it as especially with a driver. I am always trying to think of new ways to make the process better. I have also used lead before to add to gaps to close them up also on jambs.

Thank you and I bought them off amazon just universal body shims

If I remember right that 70 Nova had two where this Barracuda in 71 had 1. I have a 68 Nova in the shop now with 2.

The goal is to try and spray epoxy on the back sides where they are accessible, in reality that might not always be the case, but we do the best we can.

That is a great question, unfortunately if the spray and pray doesn't get it that will be an area without primer on it. I know its not the ideal case, however if you see most of these cars had large portions of bare metal from the factory a small spot here and there is still better then they were. If you also think about it anyplace you weld even with the weld through primer will burn it off a bit. We can't make it 100% covered but we do the best we can so they live on for the next 50 years even better! Good thing about that is all the time if paint can't get to it water should not also be able to touch it slowing down any corrosion.

thank you and personally I would not weld up that entire gap. Lead melts in a lot lower with the heat then you would ever have to get to weld mild steel. So the heat it would take I feel to add that kind mild steel tig rod in a gap that large would have a great chance of warping the panels. If you had your heart set on that i would put a patch over the two edges covering the middle gap and weld that up, but to me that also doesn't have any advantage. Also the amount of time on the welding machine would be a lot, just in general I don't think practical. Lead has proven to last decades upon decades so I think that is a good option also I would also consider using kitty hair or a alunimunized filler material like All Metal.

@@carthageclassiccars Thanks your thoughts, I agree lead has been used for years successfully, I wondered if it was used by manufacturers as was much simpler and quicker to apply in factory conditions than 'cut and butt'. Great work by you, will look forward to future videos.

I think your right, the cheapest and easiest way to fill any slight fitment differences between how each car fit up between the roof and quarters.

@@carthageclassiccars 👍

it sounds like the seal is cracked or damaged or there is a rust hole in the drip rails. Look closely and find the hole and seal it up. There are many ways to do that job depending on what you find. Good luck.

Thank you

This one will be a tribute in the loose sense of the word. It was a base model Barracuda. Your 71 sounds like a really awesome optioned car, take care of it.

Yeah I noticed figured it was! All 👍. Do ya already have drivetrain fit the plan?

Yes I have all the drivetrain parts ready for the most part for assembly already

Carthage North Carolina 910-722-9552

Thanks a lot. I would say this is not the standard, but hang in there if you want it this way all it takes is time and effort. If not just build and enjoy it how you want too.

I do TIG braze on these cars every now and then. I actually have done in on some of my videos to show where i use it. Mostly in seam areas or filling gaps. Personally I like traditional weld fusing the panels together if I cut the door, put a slice in a panel to relief it back and even building up an edge a fused weld is far superior in strength. Thats why you really should be butting panels and brazing them to hold then together. That is not saying brazing wouldn't work as you described more of a personal preference. The only benefit I see to brazing is less heat input and easier to sand down. The downsides I see is where i weld on the edges I don't have to worry about the heat and the cost factor of brazing rod is just so high compared to its mild steel counterpart. To me there is no enough benefit to justify it.

@@carthageclassiccars thank you for your knowledge.

you are welcome thanks for watching!