Im glad your covering these topics as there is not a lot of info or detailed articles out there on how to sas these trucks. Ive been running my truck on a 5" rc drop bracket lift with coilovers and a front lsd and have had diff shifting issues like you mentioned. As well as the drop brackets hanging low for the lower control arms costing me 2" of ground clearance and having to strengthen all the brackets themselves. That stock front driveshaft sucks with any lift, i upgraded to a superlift front shaft with a double cardan joint that is much stronger and fits stock trucks as well. After wheeling the truck with the diff drop bracket lift and weak steering components with no aftermarket support, the money I've already invested in it plus the bi annual replacing of the entire steering system has me regretting it slightly and really leaning towards a SAS in the future. The biggest reason not to do it like you mentioned is the lack of info, not wanting a monster truck, not wanting a super wide stance, and all the custom fab work that comes with it would mean the truck would be under construction for half a year that i could spend out using the truck wheeling, camping, and enjoying it. Once my other rig is built and i can use that, ill probably reevaluate my ranger and more than likely sas it. Im just tired of no front suspension travel, and replacing the entire suspension and steering components every year or two. Also i hope as you do this project you include a detailed list of the parts you used for future reference to anyone who wants to perform this swap in the future

By far theeee most informative video. You practically identified a weakness and optional solutions. Good work!!

i love this channel i could watch it all day. Please make more videos! The really in depth videos are my favorite

Great informational video, I have no plans to sas my truck as I have it lowered but enjoyed watching & learning regardless

I'm doing the same to my 97 mountaineer using a high pinion 44 out of a 77 f150 that we cut off the passenger C and moved it in several inches to get the right track width. then i will be using a 91 to 94 explorer TTB frame. James Duff makes a almost bolt on radius arm set up just for this. I have a semi floater Dana 60 out of a 69 f150 for the rear that i will just do a axle under spring swap. the stock 302 is getting swapped for a 351 using a lighting intake to make the stock upper half of the intake work. hope you have good luck with your swap.

I'm gonna do a solid axle sway on 2011 Ford Ranger FX4. I just purchase a xj Cherokee high pinion Dana 30 for $200. I'm going to actually beef it up with all high quality parts fit all out like you would do with a dana 44. But my setup is al for overlanding and trail riding

I know it’s not related to this vid but Would you be able to show where/how you hooked up your boost gage and other gages?

I'm surprised the lunchbox in the front was causing so much wear with manual hubs. Not a recomended setup at all?

Great video! Im considering axle swapping my ranger as well for all the same reasons you mentioned. Im running 33x10.5 on 2” of lift and i have hardly any wheel travel in the front, it is super stiff. I also want a selectable locker. I have considered the high pinion jeep dana 30 and installing the axle shafts from a newer dana 30 with the larger u-joints, im not sure if that would actually work though. I really like your idea though of the full width dana 44, but then i would have to use the ford 9” to get the width or bolt pattern to match. Im wanting to run ox lockers and they dont sell one for the ford 9”. Ive though about the ford 8.8 31 spline and using a c-clip eliminator kit, some will widen out the axle a little bit so it might not be noticeable and then having a machine shop double drill the shafts for the correct bolt pattern. Im really trying to avoid spacers or narrowing axles. Is there another option im missing? My truck is a full time trail rig, but it does need to be street legal/ able to drive itself places on the road. Another thought, have you considered moving the front axle forward a couple inches? Looking at my ranger, if i moved my front axle forward i could have more clearance with my fenders without raising the ride height. It would also give better entrance angles. Thanks for all the videos and information!

Great video 👍. Sir, can we invite you to do a review video for our Auto LED lighting? We could arrange to have a sample product shipped for review

what tire size and what power? full width axles are a no brainer these days. go grab a set of 05+ f350 axles and run with it. the cost of those axles is less then going to an ancient d44 setup. d44 cant really handle 35s that well. I am saying that when I own a stack of d44 ford stuff and have detroits and yukon chro moly shafts in one. tying yourself to jeep junk d30 is dumb. full widths are the only smart choice. huge brakes, bulletproof and CHEAPER