Sorry I am not selling this - just showing how I made one :)

Can we get a part list ? Tankyou

@@Impermeabilizacionesinc Sorry - this was 3 years ago - I don't have anything to really give ya - other than the mention of the parts in the video

Nope, sorry - kinda just built this based on the tools I wanted to put on it :) had the ideas for the bearings and that was really the most planning

Thanks! Good luck with your build!

I believe I used 1" pipe and flange and the coupling on the end of the pipe was around 1.5" outer diameter to fit the pillow block bearing - the length of the pipe had to have been 3" to go through the 2 2X6s - hope that helps!

I might not have mentioned the exact size but it's all going to be dependent on what bearings you get - I had these on hand so I used what I had, if you are buying them you can really use whatever sizes you want :)

@@HoarderOfHobbies thanks!

Ahh I completely missed that part in the video didn't I? - so the miter saw top happened to be 3.5" so the 2X4 was perfect - but the planer top was 2.75" so I actually had to jack it up with a 3/4" piece of wood on each side at 36:49 you can see them and then at 39:57 you can see I added some on the side because the planer was a bit wider and the holes to secure it down were *right* on the edge and I didn't like that and wanted to expand the width - does that make sense?

Yes. That what I thought. If you could provide the length of the 2x6's for height, width and depth. Much appreciated!

@@timhalleran3514 so the height (without the castors) is 32" - depth is 18" and length of the spinney part is 33" - so that makes the entire width a bit over 48" (because of the spacing in the spinney part - make sense?

I realized that with these tapered ball nose bits and the soft pine wood -I didn't need any roughing pass :) - there has to be tons of Mach3 videos out there - but I could probably make one too :)

I put it up here - it's not that much really - hope it helps! drive.google.com/file/d/17jGUYX9LYOVZKZgcxwgzG5BlltZgHlmI/view?usp=drive_link

Thank you very much! Appreciate!

might a 1kN load cell be too small for such a project? I mean that the force of the blow could exceed its measuring capacity?

Sounds like it would be too small? I think the 500kg one I used was right about the mid range of most people's ability to strike, but some elite striker could probably max mine out too!

I think I expressed myself wrongly. Your load cell is perfect for this. I don't even think that someone can punch or kick with a force of 500 kg. I referred to the fact that I have a load cell of only 1kN, i.e. 100 kg, and I thought that there is a possibility (related to the supply voltage used) to record the values of a blow whose force exceeds its measurement capacity.

I put it up here - it's not that much really - hope it helps! drive.google.com/file/d/17jGUYX9LYOVZKZgcxwgzG5BlltZgHlmI/view?usp=drive_link

Thanks - All your ideas are solid ones - it's too late for MY build but maybe somebody reading the comments will get the advice - I have almost tipped it over moving it around, so wider would be better - I never cut with it on the casters for that same reason too! I was worried about the wings brackets not being strong enough, but even after 2 years they are still really solid - thanks!

I struggled and struggled with that and eventually just bought an Ortur Laser and Lightburn :)

it's aluminum t-slot - search for 3060 or 3080 - I think I got this from OpenBuilds.com - openbuildspartstore.com/v-slot-20x80-linear-rail/

Thank you!

Yeah I don't think this hobby is paying for itself like it was supposed to! LOL Where ya at in Florida? I'm in the Clearwater area

@@HoarderOfHobbies I used to live down in Layton on Long Key, but, sadly, moved North to NJ 30 years ago.

I think it has a small belt in there - but honestly I've never really looked! :) It's a great table saw and I still love it 3 years later

Yes it does - no problems at all with it

Good to know I just ordered one. My trekpower 950 just overheated and burned up the control board,😮‍💨

@@dieselrc9768 Ahh sorry to hear your other one melted! Yeah this one hasn't had any problems - even been in the garage here in Florida for the last year too

They are called "Kreg In-Line" clamps

I really like the Hackerboxes Monthly subscription - hard to pick favorites because they have all been pretty cool, but there was one that had two boards that you set up to communicate with each other via laser diodes - that was probably my favorite

True - but I think I was afraid of machining too much so I wanted to sneak up on it slowly

Glad it was helpful!

Yeah they pulled all of the military logos off of Etsy :(

That sucks because I wanted to make one for my dad

Thanks!

Not sure if Aspire had both tool paths back when I made this - but I'll check it out now

Thanks!

Thanks :)

Thanks!

It all depends really - with the CNC I like to have as many options to hold stuff down as possible :)

Nope I didn't do any welding, I think I also have some slight misalignment but maybe my gap is big enough I don't notice? What if you rotate the set screws to the same side, so the alignment is off evenly? just a thought

The set screws are at basically the 10 and 2 positions which is why pressure is all on one side. I also thought of drilling out and tapping holes for more set screws on the exact opposite sides from the existing set screws, so I think I'll explore that possibility. The whole issue is to keep the section of pipe from being able to move so I'll figure something out. I really like your design. I've looked at lots of different versions of the flip top but yours seems to be the only one using bearings which was something I had in mind so I'm glad to not have to design the whole thing. I'm using yours as a starting point and just making a few modifications. Thanks again for getting back to me and for your input.

@@jimkern7922 maybe a shim on the opposite side too might help? would love to see the modifications - you have a channel you post stuff on?

Decided to quit worrying about the carriage/bearings issue and went ahead with building the frame assembly. Now that the pieces that hold the pipe flanges are secured the misalignment issues are quite a bit less. Still not perfect but should be usable as is. I don't post anything to KZfaq so I'll tell you quickly what some of the changes I made were. First off all of the flip top tool stand plans I saw use dimensional construction type wood. I think over time, as the wood dries it may tend to warp and twist in ways that may cause alignment and rubbing issues. I used solid wood, mostly oak. I pick up free tables off Craigslist and use the lumber from the table tops for other purposes, like this project. Instead of butt joints I used 3/4 inch box joints for the revolving part and rabbets for the frame assembly. I don't know if there is a way to send private messages in KZfaq but if you find a way I would be happy to send a few pictures. Again I think your design is the best I've seen.

@@jimkern7922 Yeah I don't think there are private messages - but you can email me at [email protected] - I'd love to see the pictures for sure - box joints and rabbets - yes that's definitely the way to go - I think for a lot of my projects I just get lazy and want to get it done so I skimp on the joinery I know is best LOL

I downloaded a Mach 3 Laser Post Processor from some forum somewhere, but it doesn't use PWM - it's either on or off - so it's not great - I've since changed to an Ortur Laser for all my laser stuff - for the PWM

I see, which mach3 breakout board are you using. Does it have pwm on it?@@HoarderOfHobbies

@@bobheadzeek If I remember correctly (this was like 2 years ago) the main problem was the computer would have had to do the PWM and while that's OK for a spindle, it would not have been good enough for a laser - the breakout board I was using for the laser is something like C10 I think amzn.to/3OB9vEb

I see, you just got a whole new laser rig.@@HoarderOfHobbies

Thanks! Since building this one I've seen a few other people use Pillow Block bearings in different ways - they are great! :)

Sorry I don't have a printed wiring diagram - best I can offer is about 9 minutes into the video I explain the wiring

@@HoarderOfHobbies thank you🙂

@@HoarderOfHobbies hi..cnc router z axis drop occasionally while program running ….and normal movement move perfect but cnc router engraving happen you have any idea about this problem

@@mdsharook894 If the z axis is falling while you are in the middle of a job - it could be something like Idle current reduction - if the Z Axis is not constantly moving, it's possible there's a switch or setting that allows the driver to lower the current to save on power and keep the motor cooler - BUT that could also mean it's slipping because the lower current isn't enough to hold the motor in place with weight on the Z Axis... I'd look into your drivers and turn off idle current reduction for the motor and see if it still does it

@@HoarderOfHobbies In x y z a axis motor, both x and y is getting heat more but all the axis has same dip switch setting with same current and voltage

Thanks 👍

Thanks!

I got some help on the forums here newlifegames.net/nlg/index.php?action=forum

Thanks - please use the idea, that's why I do this :)

It's a frankenstein :) part of it was a machine from eBay and I put nearly all new parts on it, made new gantry sides, etc...

This is as close as I could fine and should work great for carving amzn.to/3BIIN6H

Thanks! The sanding thing is a wire brush cup - I got them from Amazon :) amzn.to/3haUiwl

Yeah I have tried a couple times to use the hot air and so far I'm not very good at it LOL

I got mine off Amazon - amzn.to/41pz9jS - search for "abrasive wire brush for drill"

I think the max I every really tried was 1" boards and they held down just fine - generally I prefer the side clamps though because these are kinda in the way for CNC work :)

@@HoarderOfHobbies Thank you for the quick response much appreciated.