Enjoy. Mine is still running great. Only a couple of small nozzle issues since i bought it.

His video was only about resolution and nothing about low light abilities, and that’s all I was addressing. I’m curious if your really watched the video, or you just arent’ happy with your iPhone camera for some reason; I would suspect you maybe didn’t actually watch the video through. Tony Northrup’s entire video and conclusions right down to his ridiculous conspiracy theory that apple did it to sell more iCloud storage are based on one assumption he makes, that current phone 48mp sensors are bogus and don't offer anything over a 12mp sensor. His statement that cutting the pixel into 4ths with the same filter doesn’t offer anything shows he doesn’t understand the importance of the ability of each of those sub pixels to record the luminance value. This is as important, and probably more important than the color and indeed is the reason the sensor is effective.. My video clearly shows the 48mp sensor delivers much more detail than a 12mp equivalent, and the difference isn’t small or subtle. I thought I did a pretty good explanation of why his conclusion seems “logical”, but in fact is incorrect (and in fact was the same mistaken logic I had when I first heard about these quad bayer sensors.) I also thought I did a pretty good job explaining that none of this is about photography, and the phone makers aren’t doing these high megapixel sensors for the same reason as the camera makers have been doing for the past 20 years. This is al about getting decent quality digital zoom, not high resolution single shots to print large.

@@cwaynefox If you compared the 15 PM with 13 PM in low light, you would find that one is not better than the other; both are useless.

@@tommyharris5817 you might be right, wouldn’t know since I only use the phone for snapshots and documenting some things as well as quick videos. But you said Tony Northrup was right and you seem to basing that conclusion on something that has no relevance to his video or mine. In regards to resolution of a quad bayer 48mp sensor, which is all my video is about, he isn’t right.

Thanks.

Actually it’s in Utah, about 40 miles south of Vernal. As far as the audio thanks for heads up. I noticed some of the clipping, seems when I moved my dbx286s I think I bumped the gain, or maybe the compressor setting. Will try to work that out before the next one. Yes, big time golfer. My house is actually next to my course, right off the driving range tee box. Son and step son are both golf professionals.

I do remember you. Haven’t hung out at LuLa for a while, Appreciate the comments. This is proving to be a fun series to do. Knowing how hard it was to get good shots with Chrome film using an RZ67 or Pentax 67 with its very limited dynamic range on occasion, I have a huge respect for the talents of these photographers. The skills it took to use those 8x10 cameras and get the results they did blows my mind. And considering the “manipulations” they did, nothing compares to what is going on now. Your comment about AI making it so no one trusts any photograph anymore… unfortunately we seem to be getting there rather quickly.

Glad it was helpful!

It’s one of my older videos, but still use the process all the time. Here’s the link , not sure why the card didn’t show up. I’ll add the link to this video. Thanks for the heads up. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b8yGebah2Jmwmn0.htmlsi=eI597NVP2u12ChOF

Not sure about your challenges, FW400 is pretty old tech. Not sure how well current macOS and thunderbolt can handle things. Although from your description the HD is connected via USB, but the iSight is connected via FW400? That wouldn’t work, the FW400 would have to go all the way through into a thunderbolt FW adapter into the Mac. As far as the last question, The change you make will remain, no worries about restarting. The exception might be when a new macOS is released, so it might break under Sequoia, and require the same fix.

@@cwaynefox thank you kind sir for this. appreciate very much.

Sure. I’ll take the lens off and hold the camera sensor facing down sometimes but usually I just left it on.

www.archivalmethods.com/category/boxes?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsuSzBhCLARIsAIcdLm7jWo_wMUHvMKBU-8gcgTtzOGy_xr5t3e38LerDmPf2v5H7Lw9YEKoaAgFQEALw_wcB

Sure. Be best if the flash has a manual control mode so it’s consistent each time.

@@cwaynefox Thanks. It's a big Factor in macro photography and some companies like Canon disable flash in bracketing.

@@lidiatheblackrose7798 I don’t think the Fuji cares if the flash is attached, it will trigger it if it is. The key would be to set your Interval long enough that the flash has time to recycle between each shot and it has enough power to get through all of the shots.

@@cwaynefox ah ok. I know that Canon forces electronic shutter to bracket and that doesn't trigger flash. I run mine 1/128 to 1/64 so it's not super demanding. Thanks for the help 🙏

Glad it was helpful!

Glad it was helpful!

One important fact that most miss is that you want to maintain the original colors as close as possible, so later when you convert to an output space you have all the data available for that conversion. If you clip the colors into a monitor space, then you will be missing many colors that might be in your printer space. Output spaces do not have a relationship with each other at all, instead they all have a relationship with a common “storage” color space., referred to a “working” colorpace. That’s the purpose of the theoretical color spaces, ProPhotoRGB, AdobeRGB, and sRGB. Those spaces are not created based on any output device, but are theoretical and based on maintaining the data (although sRGB really isn’t that either but for some reason it gets lumped into working spaces). You have have a “common” space that can contain all the data, so as you output the data to differerent devices you have all the available data to make that conversion with. Only ProPhotoRGB is large enough to contain all the information a modern sensor can capture, which maximizes the ability to map the data into various output spaces. the next video covers that concept pretty well.

Thanks for the response. This is quite challenging topic and I was confused about working spaces. The missing bit was the ability to make conversion. I didn't realise we would need to have something to convert from, that is a theoretical colour space. I thought a RAW data would work equally well. Cheers!

Glad it was helpful!

Much appreciated!

Welcome!

The printer ships with no ink in it. When you initialize the printer it must fill all of the tubes and head with ink. This is referred to as charging the printer.

Glad it was helpful!

sorry, but no ideas on this at all. Does a Dell Inspiron even support firewire? Most windows computers never did.

@@cwaynefox supposedly thru the daisy chained Apple dongles into the usb-c port

Might try this ... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/irCPhdhplqyceZs.html

@@cwaynefox Thanks for the details i have done the same but still no luck

sry, had to repost the video because I found an extra step(unstacking the photos) that helps. I saw your comment, still researching it a little. I you want to repost it here, that would be great! thanks

@@cwaynefox . . . Thanks Wayne for the update. I will watch this new posting.

@@cwaynefox Thanks Wayne for creating this video. Your video allowed understand how I could finally clean up an issue I have had with my key-wording strategy that has been bugging me for over 2 years. I don't how my issue started but an extra 'parent level' key-word had been added throughout my catalogue and I simply couldn't figure out a way to get rid of it. I believe the issue was caused as I had upgraded a piece of software (Excire Foto) that automatically assigns key-words to images. I don't think it was a 'user' error vs. a software 'bug'. Regardless after working on this for few hours everything appears to be okay. Thanks again. Your knowledge of key-wording has been so beneficial to me. Thanks, Keith (Canada)

thanks for the comment. Glad it was helpful. it’s taken me a few years to clean up mine mainly due to these annoying duplicates and happily my list is now organized as I envisioned it when I did those first keyword videos a few years ago.

Both docks specifications show they only support a max of 2 displays. So while the computer might support 3 displays (such as a current MacBook Pro), a 3rd display will require connecting it via another way to the computer (2nd thunderBolt bus if the computer has it like the MacBook Pro or an HDMI port)

thanks

Thanks for the comment. the Shortcut file links are in the video description below the time Stamps, not in the comments.

Appreciate the comment. Yeah, sort of a big gaff for him to talk about them in USB C terms. But I was just intrigued by the tech revealed by the CT Scan, and got me curious of all that extra tech could really deliver anything. Thus the video and the test. maybe some of high price is due to the brand but it’s obvious to me they’ve put some substantial engineering in it and have built a superior cable to any I’ve tested so far. As far as heat, that doesn’t explain why the same M.2 SSDs can operate at over 5000 Gb/s when mounted internally. They are mounted externally in an OWC active air-cooled enclosure, not just relying on a heat sink to pull heat away. Additionally, why would the slow down occur almost immediately (after one pass) and bounce back and forth with the other cables.. It’s not like they are heating and cooling that quickly. I let the SpeedTest run for over 10 minutes with the new cable, and the speed remained completely constant. If it was heat related, the new cable wouldn’t have made a difference. So I don’t think heat has anything to do with it. I do think the tech in the cable is superior to any other active TB cable I’ve tried before. Now whether it’s worth the extra money ... guess it depends on if your thunderbolt chain has some inefficiency in it. For many it probably is overkill, other cables will perform just fine. I was actually surprised by my results, but for some reason other TB4 cables just don’t deliver. I even put the drive right next to my computer and tried using a 1 meter TB4 certified cable from both CalDigit and OWC. didn’t make a difference.

@@cwaynefox I was just wondering, I saw something interesting with some 10GBaseT gbits some time ago where they would behave exactly like your "cheap" cables. And they were hot, like burning hot. Like you, I got one of the Caldigit TB4 cables (got it with my TS4), and the other day when I wanted to migrate to a new notebook using Migration Assistant w/TB the connection was not recognized, maybe there are gremlins in the cheaper cables, but I am glad that you spend the time looking into it - I will now add one of these Pro cables to my wishlist. Thank you for these videos.

I think it might be from more attention to cropping. I used to shoot quite wide then crop down in post. Now I try to shoot as close to perfect framing as possible, so I can actually zoom in during the video if I want. Might be some better techniques in capture of the video as well. I not a real expert in this video stuff, but have learned a lot since that old video was made.

@@cwaynefox okay thanks for the reply, appreciated

appreciate the comment!