I’m pretty late getting here but I need some help. Every time I seat the bullet there is no neck tension for the bullet and I can push with my finger down. Any tips ?

Looks like some nice elm.

The nocoboostpro was definitely doing what it is made to do definitely made me a believer thankbyou for video! Wife just ordered me one 😁

You didn't show how you put the screen onto the oil pump how do you slide it in do you loosen those little four studs their pull the top cover off or how do you put the screen tubing into the pump!!!!

Thanks ran into the same thing. You did trying to figure that out. Super bad oil leak must be that gasket. Looks like I need to go find it at 3/8 extension I can grind down :-)

square headlight 1980. cool

Thank you for this.

Clamp a pair of vice grips, gently, onto the the tube just above that bulge and then hit the vice grips. Save ya from making that tool

Found out a crows foot wrench and a extension works well

Shut the engine off so people can hear you

So good thank you for helping me save 850 thabks

I have a rusty 96 k1500 I'm in the process of going through. I'll be mounting the same Western Conventional blade, but with a Myers E47 pump. I have the Myers light / pump bracket (off who knows what), but will be fabricating the entire lower mount. Your video gave me some idea on how to support the plow. Thanks!

Beautiful video. Beautiful loads.

Thanks for the advice especially since this is the first engine I am rebuilding and it's a 350 sbc.

I'm going to use a copper pipe with a hose clamp to keep copper pipe from expanding at the swell on the screen tube.

I'm going to use a copper pipe being a softer metal does less damage pounding screen tube in.

Thank you!! I was looking inside the hood a bit confused 😅 This saved me a brain fart moment, thanks!

I had to do the same thing

Do you have any pictures of where you have the thrust arm attaching to the frame? Can't really make anything out in the video. Installing on a 80 k20 suberban and having a challenge trying to figure out where to line things up.

Your supposed to have your oil pan gasket on the block

Just a quick update... Okie was right about the 8mm pipe plug, although a 5/16" works too (on .003" difference). Also, my bolts were T-40's, not T-30's. Thanks again for the vid... I expect it will help many more.. Sorry to hear about you having to do it twice..

Very helpful... Working on mine in a blazing 30 degrees.. The square is a 5/16".. Tried the grinding method and was able to get one out. The other was so tight I had to go buy a hardened bit. Thanks again for the post. David

Thank you!

Thank you for making this video! I have a 94 Chevy K2500 454-7.4L Silverado and it has the exact same adapter and it is currently leaking. It's a small leak, but enough I want to get it stopped. This video was the only thing I've found that had ANY information on this. Again, thanks so much, this is going to help %1000. Special thanks to all in the comments posting tools and part numbers. MUCH APPRECIATED!

How do u get the needles down low enough to put the twine through them?? Thanks

Harbor freight sales the tools you need. They actually have a set that fits this. Like 8$ for the set. For next time

Turn off the frigging motor

Excellent.

Thanks for this. Saved me a lot of time watching this.

Thank you sir!! Who would of thought!

💡🥂 💡

GM 12555554 Engine Oil Filter Adapter Seal/ O-RING. This should be the part number.

Excellent information.

Come on guys we all know if it's a diesel it has to stay on until you go home lol. Thanks for the info on the bulb. I was gonna tear down my grill tomorrow. Glad I looked here first. 👊🏽💯

how is that thing holding up ?

THANK YOU

Good video. One thing to consider in on these semi auto rounds, they seat on the case neck. The brass can stretch after firing, so trimming the case to proper case length before belling and priming the case can be an important first step.

I bought a Suburban with a blown engine. I had a puddle on the ground from the adapter the first time I cranked the blown engine over. The socket you need is a SUNEX TOOLS 310PC. I went to the parts store and demanded hex head plugs, they had Dorman branded ones. For the cooler lines, I ground the old crimps off, installed new hydraulic hose, and used some good hose clamps. I have a feeling they will work TONS better than the aftermarket replacement ones. The aluminum crimps only last about 2 years.

thanks bro. i never woulda guessed. next they'll have accessing it thru the glovebox.

The shock turns on mine when you try to loosen the top bolt on the shock. It's got a square head on the stem. Somehow have to hold the top stem of the shock from turning while loosening the bolt. Idk how you just took the bolt off with a socket. And I have stock shocks on my 2010 dodge 2500.

So I was able to find plug removal sockets. Turns out it isn't 5/16" its actually an 8mm drain removal socket that is needed. If you don't wanna ruin an extension. But thank you for the video this is the only one I was able to find!!!

Oldie but a goodie - thank you for the info.

Gracias amigo, it works perfect in my 2016 ram, an video simple and helpful.

Thanks! This helped a lot, was kinda confused but this really helped!

Something isn't right. The circuit to the truck's headlights goes through the snow plow 6 way switch. This means that first you have to turn on the truck headlights with it's switch. Then you can decide which lights you want turned on, the truck's or the snow plow's. What happens when you remove the plow and the lights that go with it of course? My way of doing it. Install the plow lights completely independent. Furthermore use a relay just the same as the relay you installed for the snow plow pump and a fuse won't hurt anything either. And you are done. Far more effecient and no cutting or probing into any existing wires. I don't like the wiring set up of the folks that sell them plow lights. And the brake and turn signal is no big deal. They are are low amperage and you can tap into them wires without too much ado with that pinch connection you got. I am certain or at least it should be that the headlights on the truck have some sort of relay somewhere. At least it should be if the factory did it right.

Hey I just had to order the O-ring for this and the dealership would only sell me five of them if anyone watching this video needs one

Don’t forget to look into your bypass valve, I’ve found that ac delco is the one to get , a 30 lb one.

1/2 in is too much. The Chilton's manual says 1/4 in to 3/8 in off the bottom of the pan. And if you plan on using a performance cam? It's a good idea to tig weld or braze the pickup on. They pickup can vibrate loose and fall off. I use red loctite on the tube and tap it in with the tool. Let it cure 24hrs. Make sure that it's in the correct position. It's not a good idea to move the pickup after you've tapped it into the oil pump.

Excellent! Kept seeing people taking grills off, 2 foot long extension and no beers! All you need is a beer! Ty

Thank you I'm having an issue with finding the plug size hole.