i agree that it would be very cool if they were to either change steels or heat treats, but even though the steel in the cutting blades are soft, they are still one of the best pocket friends around, and have been for a long long time!

it seems to be a cool knife. I took it on that trip. but it was a double red flag day so we were not allowed to swim with it. the little use that I did with it, opening packages and cutting strings and the tags off our bags and such it did well. i think it will be a beater knife for me. while it seems nice, the midlock isnt something that I am used to anymore, and the thumb hole instead of a thumbstud is akward in my hands. and the blade, while a good thickness, and beautifull grind, is too wide for my taste. so while it is a nice knife, it will not be replacing my benchmade 940 for my everyday carry.

Glad you enjoyed it!

that is a bit high for my tastes :}

i am glad to hear that you are enjoying it!

Happy to hear that!

i do work in 5160, but not at that low of hardness. I use it mostly in choppers, or hard use sort of knives, and do a differential heat treat where the edge it at its maxiumum working hardness, the center portion is springy, and the back is softer and supports the working edge portion. in that case I can run the edge much harder and still have a stable blade. i dont own a hardness tester, but a file will not cut the edge very well. but just about any sharpening stone will cut it easily so it is easy to sharpen. the burr comes up easy, refines easy, and removes easy. so in that respect it is very similar to my 1095. my 1095 i use for kitchen knives, straight razors, pocket knives, edc's, utilities, some hunters, ect... knives that are not destined for hard use, so there I usually run edges very very thin. and a file wont really cut them either. but again my 1095 is easy to sharpen on just about everything, burrs come up easy, refine easy, and remove easy.

@@joecalton1449 Understood. I do think 58 hrc is a bit too low on the hardness scale too, but it was what I found available on the local shops.

Glad you like them!

Glad you enjoyed it!

ive never put a file to it to check that I remember, but the 2 blades i have had from them in that steel have not held an edge as long as i would have liked.

Glad you like them!

thank you very much erica! that last one you did with the sharpening choil was pretty cool also!!

@@joecalton1449 why thank you!!

i got this one off amazon. the product description is in the video

i put the center of the sling stud about 2.5" forward of the front edge of the forearm. and it seems good there.

@@joecalton1449I put mine 3.5 inches ahead of the forearm. I thought I put it a little deep. Works well of course, but my eyeball wants it to be closer to the forearm.

with a little luck he might get some patience as he gets a little older. or will learn when he has to use a dull knife :}

@@joecalton1449 most of his knives are D-2. Enough said. LOL 🤣

absolutely!

they still do that sometimes. i see lots of punching wherever I drive it downtown :}

i think if it works, then its a good thing! I usually use a toothbrush and dawn in the sink.

Any time!

thanks erica!

Any time!

in this video i am not talking about changing the angle while you are sharpening, but inbetween each sharpening sessions based on what you and the knife went through since the last time you sharpened. once you and the knife get to know each other, and find the angle that you both like the best, then you keep that angle until something changes that makes you want to try another one.

@@joecalton1449 I know that you talking about different angle in different sharpening session but the problem still exists. If the angle is changed then you remove more material than is really necessary. If someone is struggling with the particular angle let say for Japanese Santoku 12° and 13° for burr removal. So the angle wedge as reference is very useful. I can basically be accurate to 1° with the wedge such as Wedgek and next time use exactly the same angle to obtain the best results. But if having very cheap kitchen knife and sharpening it at 20° per side not need to change such angle anymore as this is the best for such soft steel and still can be sharp and useful knife in the kitchen which is good for abuse. It is much better to stick with the angle if works well with particular knife.

@@radoslawjocz2976 that is very cool that you can be that accurate. I dont know that I have ever even measured the exact angle that I sharpened at. i usually say to start out at just high enough to clear the finish, and if you get a scratch or 2 on the finish then that is perfect. then if you need a tougher edge, go a little higher till you quit getting damage. nothing too fancy for me.

@@joecalton1449 I seen some Arkansas stones have angle guides built in but this was only one angle basically. I like the idea of sharpening based on the choosen angle and be able to choose slightly steeper angle for final burr removal or micro bevel. I can obtain better results using hard stones because knife cannot cut into it. So can move forward and backward without any problems. Soft fine Japanese stones producing slurry which is rounding the edges and knife can slightly dig into the stone which is detrimental. Soft stones are good for stropping or polishing bigger surfaces. Good for single bevel knifes, chisels, etc. Hard fine stones are often not producing enough slurry and tends to glaze but used with fine Nagura stone are superior to anything else.

Glad you think so!

Great point!

i had one of those guided sharpening gizmos once also. I threw it away. it took far too long to set up, too long to use, and I could not vary the angles at all. a regular stone and a wobbly wrist is way better than a guided gizmo :}

Really? I have a KME made in the USA angle guided system and it only takes 60 seconds to set up. As for too long to use, I can put a 600 grit edge on Maxamet steel in 4 minutes. And I can vary the angle from 12 degrees per side up to 35 degrees. It’s 1000 times more consistent than free hand, with absolutely zero change in your edge due to “wobbly wrist.” Once you tighten the clamp down, which takes 2 seconds, you have ZERO play or angle difference. And check this out- the entire set up with 5 extremely good diamond stones (100 grit to 1500 grit) cost me $179!!!!! Yep, you read that right- $179 for an all American made product!!! Not sure what kind of whetstones you use, but good luck finding even 1 good whetstone for $179. I’ve been sharpening for over 40 years- 30 of those on a whetstone- and without doubt the angle guided “gizmos” produce a much superior angle/edge! Without debt it’s a no brainer!!

wow, you must have some big ants! I might have a couple on there if its been in one place for a long time.

@@joecalton1449 I found out it was all the sugar in it.

i guess you have a point there.

she was great, and my wife is great as long as i am great to her :}

Glad you enjoyed it!

thank you for the kind words! yes I make kitchen knives, outdoor knives, hunters, small game knives, hard use knives, choppers, slipjoints, straight razors, and the occasional lockback and linerlock, oh, and slingshots :}

thanks for the kind words, and I am glad that you like the videos!

thank you!

I just watched the video and it looks like it is working pretty well :}

a fresh edge is a beautiful thing :}

that gec 56 is a nice looking knife!

i am pretty excited to play with it! i quenched a couple test coupons at 50 degree intervals, broke them to see the grain. picked the one I liked best and made 2 small test blades to start finding the temper I like, but have not gotten to them yet. maybe this weekend or next week!