that’s true. But at the time there was no info out there any the only other person I come across had snipped them, so I thought that had to be done and I didn’t realise they could be desoldered without snipping them. if I did it again I would do it different.

thanks for the info, might help others.

the earlier minis (maybe pre LCI) only had 5 colours

yeah you just have to guess. look for colour change but also at least 3-500ml of liquid. that is likely enough. I leave the new fluid in the machine, as it is clean and sealed. If necessary just pour it away, no need to go mad and clean vessel out completely

sorry I think the fuel gauge is not necessarily related to this

@@Realminishorts Ok. Thanks a lot!

The contents. All files ‘loose’ directly on the usb.

@@Realminishorts thanks

Similar issue, I guess. I have a R60 2012 with 0 fuel reading. Replaced my fuel pump and found that the issue is actually in the junction box. Car runs fine though. I guess the relay overheats and loosens the soldering joints, which increases resistance on a line of fuel level indicator, triggering "low" or "0" fuel reading. Will check the circuit later after pulling my junction box out. The only concern I have right now is whether removing the junction box can cut power to firmware or not, which may require later reprogramming.

Thanks for the info chaps, yes I guess it would cause this zero fuel trim issue though I don’t know for sure. Let us know if it goes away when you reflow or replace the relay!

@@Realminishorts Yesterday, I pulled the junction box out, took out the circuit boards, and cut the connections for inspection. No mark of heating around the fuel pump relay, no bad soldering point, and the fuel pump works fine. Put them back and the zero-reading is still there. I have multiple things coming together, zero-fuel reading, unresponsive rear windows, and no-spray with front washer fluid not the rear. I believe these may relate to other relays or bad wiring terminals. Definitely something around the SPEG junction box. If I later identified the problem, I will let you guys know. : )

Same here. Im googling like mad for a fix......failing that i might send the damn thing back

I did it from new before I used it. So then it worked ok

that is the FRM module, unfortunately it needs reprogramming by someone with proper software and experience. it is on the other side of the mini in similar location, but behind the panel where the bonnet release catch is. ‘Footwell Module’. It is caused by low battery voltage / disconnected battery. once it occurs nothing you can do but get it reprogrammed. Do not need to buy a new one which is what bmw will tell you. there is usually someone in most countries that can do it.

Sweet!

I presume you have something that can clear both errors? The 2C58 is as a result of the 2D5A. The 2D5A is often fixed by new vanos solenoid but buy either bmw original part or Pierburg. Cheap solenoids are not reliable.

In the end my problem was caused by the oil pump solenoid not the actual sprocket.

No codes just intermittent cutting out while driving. Maybe check your wiring connector block etc to the fuse panel aren’t damp / have corrosion - in some cases water leaks into that area and people have problems

Cheers dude. It's had a timing chain and drove fine for 1 day then came back with no start . Customer thinks we f**ked it but the chain is fine. Typical they mad but I told them they bought a mini! Ha

Yes on top dead center of each piston blow air through spark plug hole

check with someone like this [email protected] www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126098418338?hash=item1d5c0d2aa2:g:~xcAAOSwQutgftAM I didn't use that seller but my one is no longer listed

This doesn't control the fuel gauge though so I don't think so if that is your symptom. This one is only if you have car cutting out due to fuel pump getting intermittent power supplied. Although perhaps a different relay is used for the fuel gauge, but I don't know about that.

@@Realminishorts thank you for the reply/

INSTRUCTIONS: purchase map plus activation code from ebay seller - Download file from link to PC or Laptop. - Extract the archive using WinRar or 7zip etc - 16 GB USB 2.0. - Format FAT32 (not NTFS, not ExFAT). - Copy files and folders to USB - Insert to USB port in glove departiment. (Not in the Armrest). - Insert FSC (activation) code. - Install takes aprox 60 minutes. - After install you can remove the USB. I might make a video on it

Glad it helped!

I think aluminium would be ok. 8mm wide, maybe 4mm deep ie rectangular would be just as good as a rod and probably easier to source. the hole is approx 4.5mm wide, 5mm at the max. try 4 or 4.5 first and widen if necessary. Better to stay 8mm wide (not 10) as too fat is too difficult to fit into spring number 1 area - it is tight. also wear gardening gloves or something with tough material as pushing against the rod or bar hurts your hand - the spring pressure is quite high.

You would have to remove valve cover then you can see if the motor moves the shaft when turning ignition on. Also could use piece of wood as I did to just rotate the gear as you saw me do in the video. But unlikely to be shaft. Most likely need new motor, or check continuity of the wiring from dme to the motor, anlso check if it gets voltage to the motor end of the wiring, and check fuses.

@@Realminishorts Understood. I removed the motor and it spins (by hand) ok. I pushed the gear and it feels smooth. Motor replacement is my next move. Hopefully it is not the DME (internal driver.)

www.aliexpress.com/item/32965956744.html

to be honest not sure. but diesel does have a FUEL PUMP PRESSURE REGULATOR CONTROL VALVE about £45 which might be easier to check / change first; and or a fuel rail pressure sensor about £35. Diesel does have an in-tank pump like the petrol so perhaps it has this relay too, but I haven’t read about it. Would have to take apart your JBE to find out

@@Realminishorts actually it has 2 pumps. 1 is in the tank (the low pressure pump) and another one on the engine ( the hig pressure pump) the problem of my low pressure pump doesn't recive electric power to start iven when i do the bleeding procedure with ista d... some time the power is to low and the pump dosnt start. When i touch the fuse panel the power slowly go up an down so i suspect the problem is this relay.. this weekend i m gona ceck the fuse panel and the relay i side the panel and I m gone tell you what i found...

Hi! Today i checked the fuse panel and the relay is in the same place with the same problem is you had... the soldering is cracked and the relay doesn't provide electricity to the fuel pump... now I will repair the soldering and I will try to do the bleeding procedure to se if the pump will start...

that’s great news (!) thanks for letting us know as there will be other people in the future who need to know! now we know diesel has the same issue. you are the first to find out.

Yes. It was the same problem... the engine it's a n47 bmw diesel and first everyone sees it was the hig pressure pump but to be that pump, mast make iron particles when is broken and you can find them every were , in the fuel tank or in the comon rail. Best way to ceck the hig pressure pump is to remove the sensor from the hig pressure pump and under that sensor you will find the most part of iron particles if the hig pressure pump is broken, if is clean you need to ceck tha low pressure pump, fuse or releay... have a nice day and thank you!

that’s great to hear!