Bicycle Motorsports what do I do if my gears don’t even move? I’ve tried tightening the clutch but the piston just will not move

When installing the gear, is there any timing marks to line up with the clutch gear?

@@tonyparete6271 there is not.

lukesky36, the key was already broken before disassembly?

yea i took it apart and couldn't find the key it broke off just bought a new key should have it back together tomorrow luckily no visible damage

also im going to check the whole gearbox just in case there is leftover fragments to remove

lukesky36, if you have any questions or need any advice on the re-install, don't hesitate to ask.

lukesky36, good thinking. If you happen to have the motor removed from the frame, give it a shake and if you hear anything, you should remove the clutch gear as well to get the pieces. You definitely dont want them left in there.

Zack Howell, I highly recommend not using those orange clutch pads. Stick with the black pads that have the mesh in them. Secondly, if your clutch is slipping, try adjusting the clutch by turning the flower nut. I have another quick video on how to do that.

stacey may, let me know how it goes.

Ruben Rodriguez, the removal is very similar to this video using the tool kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rtmfp7V3sM6un5s.html Make sure the clutch is locked some how or just make sure the sprocket is immobile by wedging some in there against it or fold and wedge a 415 or 410 chain in there.

pulesjet, good suggestion. I had thought of doing something like that, but it felt as though it would have been more of a hassle than the tool and time was worth to do that. I'll prob just purchase another... Funny though, I replaced with another clutch assembly and it threaded no problem.

Stock762, no worries. The drive gear is thicker than the clutch gear. With that being said, the drive gear is suposed to rise up about an 8th of an inch passed the clutch gear.

stacey may, try a few sprays of break free or wd40 between the screw and the inner edge of the drive gear. Let it sit, then try unscrewing.

stacey may, be care fil when roughing up the intake for atomization of fuel molecules. The NT carb is sufficient and will yield good results when tuned properly. I used the NT car for quite a while and they were pretty good to me. When using these China girl motors, in the end theres no substitute for quality and eventually you will want to upgrade to a more solid and reputable carburetor- be it dellorto, mikuni or oko. Most performances heads are comparable but when space is of concern with regards to the expansion chamber, I tend to lean toward the Fred Head because the sides of the heads are flat allowing for closer proximity of the pipe.

stacey may, I almost forgot. Yes you will more than likely need to cut about a half inch by two inch area out of the clutch cover for not only the 10 tooth but also the 11 tooth sprocket.. I have already done so for my motor a while back. I'll upload a video in the next day or so showing exactly how much to cut out.

stacey may, though I dont really condone "use and return" of a product, but they are somewhat expensive so you can always purchase the impact driver for this one purpose and return to home depot or wherever when your done.

stacey may, did you place the tip of the flathead on just one side of the screw notch when tapping the screwdriver? If not, then try it that way.

Zack Howell, the key should not break when removing the gear. The reinstallation of the key is very simple. If you run into any issues just let me know.

Zack Howell, the key should be just fine. All your doing is sliding the gear off the key. If the key can withstand the gear torque, it can surely withstand having the gear pulled off of it.

Bernie Olivera, follow the directions exactly as you see in the video where I remove the drive gear. The tool is supposed to be threaded in the center of the drive sprocket, not the clutch shaft. As you turn the center screw on the tool, it pushes in the clutch shaft which in turn pulls the sprocket out. To remove the woodruff key (after the drive sprocket has been removed), you merely grab it with a pair of needle nose or push it out with your finger nail.. Just in case you still have trouble removing the drive gear, I'll do a video on how to remove it tomorrow and post it to my channel and I'll let you know when its up.

For whatever reason these China girl engines are 66 and 80cc used interchangeably. Most people just refer to it as a 66cc

Bernie Olivera, on the other side of the motor? There is no gear on the other side of the motor. In case your mean the "clutch / ring gear" right next to the drive gear, here is link to the video I made to address that. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rtmfp7V3sM6un5s.html

Sorry I meant the small drive sprocket.

Bernie Olivera, oh okay. The gear and sprocket removal tool in the video does also remove the sprocket. You just remove that nut in the center of the sprocket and then thread the remover tool in and follow the same steps that you see in my videos for removing the drive gear (not the clutch gear video). It's the exact same steps.

Bernie Olivera, If you have anymore questions, don't hesitate to ask.

remove the cylinder and inspect the piston. to get the cylinder back on, you just have to line up and compress rings with the notches on the piston as you're sliding the cylinder back down. it's a little tricky at first but becomes easy once you get the hang of it.

@@BicycleMotorsports thank you so much I will try that today

Good idea. I believe the washer is a faster application as opposed to removing either the spark plug, intake manifold or exhaust to insert the rope. I suppose it depends how much the motor is assembled or disassembled already.

@@BicycleMotorsports All that's required is pulling the spark plug. as apposed to creating expansion forces between the crank and output shaft gears

@@scottd4426 I'm not following. what exactly does pulling the spark plug do in this instance as it pertains to keeping the gears from moving? I typically never like removing the spark plug unless I absolutely have to. The spark plug crush washer really is only meant to create a reliable airtight seal one time.

ludditeneaderthal, I used to use a penny (which is still a fairly stiff metal as you said) but I prefer the magnetic property of the washer. Also the amount of torque going into the gear puller is rather minimal so I'm not too concerned with the amount of pressure on the gear tooth and washer. I do like the wire leash idea. Good tip.👍

Bicycle Motorsports obviously, your technique and choices "work just fine", I'm just a devil's advocate kinda guy, and if anything can possibly go wrong, it usually does for me, lol. Never hurts to assume the worst. Agreed, the magnet retrieval potential probably Trump's the chipped tooth danger, but I've also run into LOTS of cheesy powdered metal gears in my life, so tend to assume all "chineseum alloy" is waiting for an excuse to fail, lol. But, once again, no intention at all to claim "you done it wrong!!!", Lol. Also, another superb vid, you are quite talented in your presentations!

ludditeneaderthal, lol. Agreed. With these motors it probably is best to assume and prepare for the worst. Things rarely work right the first time around.

Any hardware store like Menards or home Depot

Zack Howell, trouble with the nut or assembly? If it's the nut, just place penny or washer between the gears and tighten.

Maybe I was wrong still having trouble

Got it now

Bicycle Motorsports when I put the screw back in it will seat the gear?

Zack Howell, to seat the gear, merely line up the keyway with the key and press on by hand and tap lightly with a hammer or mallet. Then put the washer and nut on.

The only way I know of is with the tool

​@@BicycleMotorsports what size is the gear puller

So just use the nut on the bolt extraction tool that comes with the kit instead of a washer

stacey may, give it a try. I'd be really surprised if that didn't work. Keep me posted.

stacey may, a flathead socket adapter may produce favorable results as you can get better leverage using a socket wrench. www.zoro.com/proto-drag-link-socket-bit-12dr-1516slottd-j5446a/i/G1217736/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI84C9hpqp2wIVBVSGCh1IPgASEAQYAyABEgKV8vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-3-8-in-Drive-Flathead-Driver-Socket/1000071535?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA_ONLY-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-SosHandTools-_-1000071535:Kobalt&CAWELAID=&kpid=1000071535&CAGPSPN=pla&k_clickID=041eb06f-bc12-44c9-9923-e4c6c8da64bb&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIy8yD1Zmp2wIVz1qGCh0TBQB4EAQYASABEgJ3-vD_BwE

stacey may, theres this too is you have bit and a 3/8" socket wrench. IRWIN 4935071 3/8" Bit Holder Magnetic www.amazon.com/dp/B0040UFB4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VggdBb791ZNVY

U can buy a old style that works by hammer cheap and is great for these on the go

stacey may, make sure you have the gears locked in place with a penny or washer, otherwise the screw will never come out. Try holding the screwdriver at a 20°-30° angle on one side of the screw and tap the back of screwdriver with a hammer. You can also try and use the largest surface flathead screwdriver you can which will give more leverage on both sides of the notch in the screw. Or... Purchase an impact screwdriver and hit the top of it with a hammer or use an impact driver. www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-3-8-in-Drive-Impact-Screwdriver-Set-7-Piece-2905/205674679?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD25T%7C25-1_HAND+TOOLS%7CNA%7CPLA%7c71700000034127224%7c58700003933021546%7c92700031755124838&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh-Wx-4Wp2wIVj6DsCh1b0A5cEAQYASABEgLt5PD_BwE&dclid=CP32u_6FqdsCFc4LDAodSjIB-w TEKTON 2910 1/2-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPUJYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DXedBbP93EV2F Let me know if you're still having trouble if the above suggestions and I will think of something else you can try.

Also if you don’t want to buy and impact screw driver. Hold the clutch in place with a penny and use the nail puller side of the hammer. You’ll find the it fits perfectly in place then just unscrew it’s using the other side of the hammer

Jonah Epstein, no they will not. There not nearly enough torque being applied when reversing the the screw on the drive gear as well as the clutch gear. The washer and penny are fairly soft when compared the the hardness of the gear teeth themselves.

stacey may, I dont use fb either. Try an mikuni vm18 for a true power band and efficiency of your 66cc. Theres other carbs like the oko or mikuni flatslide, but the mikuni roudslide vm18 fits within the frame instead of offset like other larger carbs (if you care about athstetics) and works on 2 and 4 stroke motors. Legend has it, the vm18 tunes itself. Get an oz reed valve to prevent blowback of fuel into the carb and filter. Make sure the cylinder you buy is fully ported + 3rd transfer port (I'll do a video soon on polishing). Purchase number 65, 75,80,82.5, and 90 main jets and 22.5 27.5 and 30 pilot jets from Treatland. The 11 tooth will give you ~10% more on your top end speed but will lower you low end torque a bit. (that's why the 11 tooth is more prevalent on Florida bikes) Remeber, as you add more performance parts, you'll want to jet up on the main. The objective being- allow more fuel to facilitate the higher flow of gasses that the other parts contribute to. Your elevation will contribute to the jetting as well. My advice for the intake and exhaust ports is not to dremel it yourself which requires knowledge and patience as the port timing is a science and removing that much material with a dremel bit will take some time. There are vendors out there who machine these cylinders to a very precise tolerance for very specific needs based in the parts you're running. Check out Zeda motorsports, CR Machine and MZ Miami to chose from the parts (cylinders) you need. If you have anymore questions don't hesitate to ask . 👍 Lastly, once you hit the 35+mph mark on these bikes, make sure you always wear a helmet. It's a very much overlooked and ignored thing amongst riders who easily forget there is a motor on their bicycle.

Zack Howell, which gear are you having trouble with?

Bicycle Motorsports the drive gear I got the screw out but. Don't have the gear puller tool, I'll have yo buy one

Zack Howell, good to hear that you got the screw out. I should mention that the bigger the flathead screwdriver you have for this purpose, the better. I left a link for the gear remover tool in the description section, though you can purchase them on Ebay, bikeberry, etc.