Nice one mate glad it helped!

Thanks for the tips 👍🏽

👍 Keep it up good videos at least someone making good efforts to teach someone or showing someone, where most of us don’t have time for all this when we are at site.

First time can be daunting, but done a few and not so bad once you get the hang of it

Nice one mate thanks for the additional tips 👊🏽👍🏽

Same here, I tried levering out and the chassis was starting to bend and I was wanting to save the heat cell. I’ve seen a WB video saying don’t disconnect the clip, but it really wasn’t working for me. Soon as I released the clip… the job was a lot easier

Thank you 👊🏾

If your boiler has been off and you still have condensate discharging then it could be 1 of 2 things. Either a split main heat exchanger (you would notice the pressure dropping on the boiler as well) or if it's been raining outside then it's possible it could be coming in through the terminal and then discharging through the condensate

@@cputilitysolutions Thanks you for the reply. 1)Split main heat exchanger (you would notice the pressure dropping on the boiler as well) - I have feeder tank in the loft (attic) , so there is no way of measuring the pressure; the water from the tank would just slowly fill the system, I think? The boiler is just 3 months old - could the main heat exchanger split so quickly? Also it was just on flush of about 100 ml over about 5 hours, because as soon as I noticed the discharge at 6 p.m. I kept watch; it didn't happen again. Three hours later, I went into the roof space where the feeder tanks is. Despite my cleaning it out completely 3 months ago, it was quite dirty, full of lumps of slime and gunge and the water was orange coloured and there was quite a bit of "sediment" in it as well. HOw could this have happened? Also if the main heat exchanger was split and this dirty water from the tank was topping up the system was replacing the existing water and also leaking out at the heat exchanger, wouldn't I expect to see this rusty orange colour in the "condensate". The colour was clear when it flushed through. 2) How much water could leak out of a cracked heat exchanger into the condensate pipe? 3)The terminal is on the roof - it wasn't raining much around the time of the condensate discharge, and the wind wasn't blowing. Could rain water actually get in to the vent and up through to where the condensate collects before it has discharged? 4) I am hoping there isn't a fault already. Could it be that when the heating is not on and condensate had collected while the boiler was still on hours ago but hadn't discharged at the point of switching off the system that somehow some condensate could be left over and the boiler is programmed to discharge it? I am maybe clutching at straws. 5)Without pressure readings to rely on, which would show pressure falling, how would I bel able to tell if there was a split heat exchanger? Would the be other signs? Thanks for your assistance - much appreciated.

Hope it went well mate!

how did it go

Thanks, no you have to order the baffles separately 👍🏾

Yup changed them all

Yeah it needs throwing on the grass crap boilers

Yes mate this is a sign that the main heat exchanger has split from the seams. Only thing to do is to replace the main hex

I'd only do that if the boiler was the highest point on the system. Last thing you want is all of upstairs to empty out on you whilst you're in the middle of it!

@@cputilitysolutions yeah true don't understand why some engineers wouldn't risk not touching isolators as creates more work but like you said may flood the house.

Usually around 400-500 but this was an insurance job so if parts are available they'll want it done!

Haha yeah it was a bit of a struggle as this was my first time. But I've managed to do them in an hour since then!

Put a screw driver between the case and the pipe under the boiler then I use two big screwdrivers under the sump and Rick it out works for me the bigger the screwdrivers the better

What combi would you recommend fitting if it was in your own home?

@@richardjones3112 All depends on your size of home and anount of hot water required i.e bathrooms. The amount of hot water out on a combi relies in the supplied inlet cold water pressure. I generally supply & fit Main/Baxi & Viessmann combi boilers. Tanked system boilers Ideal & Vaillant. Clean system & servicing either way will help increase the longevity of the boiler Your Gas Safe installer may recommend what s/he is familiar with.

The same as everyone else's - Flue/Air intake/Gas rate and/or burner pressure/Safety devices 👍🏾

@@cputilitysolutions got one of these to do next week, some useful tips here especially don’t undo the return connection on the bottom of the heat cell. Invaluable

@@smartboilercompany1983 👍🏾

No shit...