Agreed ! Those rail plugs are definitely hurting injectors… I hope you getting better very soon 🤞🏻

That was the best advice I've heard from anyone say about rail plugs!! Thanks :)

I cringe whenever I hear rail plug, race plug, shimmed PRV, etc. I've said this for years but I'm nobody working for a small shop so no one listens. I've seen massive pressure spikes just from turning the engine off. Thank you for finally saying it Josh!

This is exactly why I love your channel an videos you don’t sugarcoat anything at all nicely done josh!!!

Thanks!! No buddy has gone into depth of why these are so important!

I’ve had race plug for 2 years but running stock turbo and injectors with Tow tune. Good advice Josh 👍

Hell Yeah Brother 🇺🇸🦅

Well thats some new insight thank you JOSH first I've heard of this area good to know stuff.

Awsome information, thanks for sharing

Great content. Thanks Josh.

Thanks for the advice! I put a plug in mine when trying to diagnose injector problems and neglected to remove it, thanks for the reminder.

There's always someone who believes their personal anecdote is the all-inclusive manual on how to do things. It doesn't revive all of the blown seals you've changed, or put money back in another guy's pockets. Great advice.

Like always, super informative. Looks like I’m reverting back to a PRV and away with the rail plug lol. Stock injectors and stock cp3 but running a CPS5 switch. I’d rather not take the risk 👍🏼. Thanks Josh!

I totally agree. A proper relief is good to have.

This is awesome info! 👍

Spot on Josh.. You are dead and right and what you've said. Sound advice and great video Josh. Hope you get the feeling better soon

I ditched the plug and went with the exergy 2400BAR when I upgraded injectors and cp3. Glad I did!

Great info, thanks for the heads up.

Dope knowledge brotha. Definitely makes sense bro!

Josh,, your badass man, inspires me to start doing all my own work and so far its gone great,, I started with 364,71, non vgt turbo? Before I new I was going to build a truck,, then went with 60 overs, banks intercoller and intake manifold air dog 165, and 4” exhaust delete, Love my truck,, I have a 2005 5.9 a 2007 and 2017 6.7 I shoulda done the 5.9 but it was before I knew anything and this all started when my actuator went out on turbo and I bought the 364 to delete it,. Now I need compounds or S400 but will do later… I also just got my arp’s 625’s and Hamilton 103# springs,, but I lottery just finish installing injectors so I think I’ll drive a week and do it next weekend,, too bad I’m not like you and can do it on 20 minutes.. lol Anyways,. Love ya bro! Your awesome! Thanks for teaching and sharing your passion. I can tell your knowledge is like no other and I watch all your videos numerous times and hope I’ll get up there one day, next is the 5.9 build 24 valve,, as my 2017 is a work truck My question is,, with my work truck, now that it is 650hp I think? What can I do to make it super reliable, Head gaskets? I have the springs and arp studs I’ll get the rail plug, But I just want a reliable but fast truck,, I have nothing done to tranny,, what should I do there? And drive line? Diff? How do I stop the upgrades but just make it dialed in reliable? To work and tow My next build to go all out will be my 5.9. But I just don’t want to ruin my 6.7 as I still owe 35k on it Let me know your thoughts Thanks man sorry for the book Jon

Great explanation.

I have an 03 LB7, back in the day put an Industrial Injection dual feed line kit on it. Has a modded stock CP3, 50% over injectors. I ended up poping the original dual feed hose. Its some crazy high pressure flexible hose. Industrial sent me an upgraded one, never did install it. It feeds dual by eliminating the rail bypass valve. Well unbeknownst to me at the time, that was likely why I cracked and/or blew out seals in my injector bodies 2-3 times. And on an LB7 that means your dumping diesel into your oil. Didn't hurt the engine but cost me a lot of money & time & oil, seals, injectors, etc. Not to mention doing LB7 injectors in the truck is a real bastard of a job. It uses the longer style relief valve btw.

Thank you for this info,

Thank you for this video! Im doing a Duramax build right now and was planning to use the PPE plug which I already bought. But Ill look for the correct PRV now knowing they exist!!!

Another great info video, got a 6,7 truck with custom tunes,duel 30 over pumps turns 5 k will 14 m energy pump hold rail pressure at high rpm, guess I'll need to get relief ordered instead of plug

Just more very useful knowledge

I can’t love this video enough. There are so many parts made and sold for these trucks that are absolute crap.

I ran a BD plug for about a Month and just watching my rail pressure everything kinda set in that it’s not a good idea to take away the only way for the high ass pressure to get out other than my expensive ass industrial injection dragon flys along with a cp3 bag kit! Glad to finally get some real info on it tho! I’ve got 3 Of them sitting up on a self for Paperweights in the shop!

Very informative. Thanks

Good stuff thanks!

100 percent exactly the same on a duramax. I run a 2400 bar prv with 2 12 mil pumps and 150s. From s&s. On a modified truck with any fuel upgrades its a must as insurance for your injectors and fuel system. Stock truck a plug helps, but thats only for stock and shouldn't really be used at all. I learned about this early in my build

There is a tapers pin in the 6.7 on held down by a plat with 3 hols and a spring that’s where you shim to hold more rail pressure, but don’t loose the pin it won’t start after that.

Hey what’s up? Good words. Very straight forward. Thank you.. I’m looking at used 05 Laramie 4x4.. No tune 290000mi Very McLean 2nd owner truck.. never had transmission work or any injector work It was bought at 210 by previous owner and was used by a couple to haul a fifth wheel. They’re selling cuz they got a new truck. Should I be concerned of tranny issues???

You basically described water hammer in a fuel system. well systems I work on have prv’s for the same reason.

Very informative video I must say! My only gripe is; and this goes to the community, not the video; is that if you're a diesel power enthusiast then you should at least understand the basic concept of the importance of this kind of stuff.

Driving an lb7 duramax and even though I’m running stock fuel and big air, I will now replace my valve back to stock and get a better shimmed one in due time

Mine blew up Immediately 😂 I had to try it . I Built back Stronger 💪

Was gonna run a PPE rail plug with my 150% overs and 12mm pump until i watched this, purchased one of these yesterday! What is the torque specs for the exergy PRV on a 2015 6.7? Cant seem to find the spec in the factory service manual anywhere atleast for the stock one.. Thank you for sharing your knowledge makes me feel better about not having all the money i spent going down the drain lol

Always felt the exact same where these plugs are concerned

Definitely an eye opener. For box tuning, stock sticks and pump, what would you advise as an alternate to stock relieve valve for now, if at all? I have a 165 fass on board and plan on going up to a 10mm with 125 injectors in the near future so I'm assuming when that happens I'd me changing that valve again. Thanks!

Excellent information, Josh. Are the '19 & newer trucks electric? Mine has a plug and is connected to a wire harness. I'm assuming Cummins wants to be able to dynamically control the pressure being relieved.

So I'll be honest, when I bout both my 10 and my 08 6.7, as part of the delete process, I put the "race plug" in. Now mind you I have only one issue and that's when I stab it, I get "perform service" on the overhead, and after this video I'm thinking I'm putting the stock rpp back in and seeing if that helps as well as saves on that rail and injectors. Thanks for the video. I'll be buying the xergy one soon as well

What’s tips do you have for the second gen’s 5.9

My truck came with a rail plug and I can seem to find the factory return line with the banjo fitting that goes on top of the relief do you know the part # ?

What kills stock injectors on a stock untuned fuel system?

Great Info! How would you diagnose a faulty fuel rail Pressure relief valve?

If I’m running 45% injectors and a 12mm cp3 what size pressure relief valve should I run

Interesting morsels of tech in this one. Get Well soon Josh

Do you recommend this in deleted truck with a tuner? Or is this only for when you get bigger fuel pumps and injectors ect?

My 2014 ram 6.7 throwing p0088 code high pressure rail. Truck runs but in limp mode. Any idea ?

I need a new prv would you recommend a up grade or just stock? 12 cummins 6.7 smarty tuner, stock turbo, 30 over Injectors from "Dale's super store" they state that I can run the plug no problems but I don't want to and they can't tell me the seal pressure.

Thanks. I almost installed one on my LB7.

Josh have you ever had you truck to continue to accelerate after you let off the throttle at low rpm? I have a new to me 08 that does that while I'm towing my slide on truck camper. I've read conflicting theorys.

I mean I have my cap for the last 2 years but also I drive truck on the weekends only and stock pump and stick and only have a 125 fass on the truck with a mmini max tuner so I don’t think my will give me problems but I’ll be order a new one here soon know though lol

What is the 2400 bar is that's the fuel rail and the best valve release plug

so mabey thats whats wrong with my lb7 starts but has a little rough idle like if it was cammed might be loosing rail pressure where can i order it?

The PPE PRV’s work great. I’m not talking about rail plugs.. They open a little higher than stock but still relieve rail pressure adequately. Bout $60-70 I see how a higher rail relief would cause issues in a truck with a maxed out tune and a lot of fuel.. however stock to moderate applications, the higher(aftermarket) relief valves DO work and work good. Higher pressure, means better fuel atomization.. better power and fuel economy.

What would be the best rail plug for my 2008 dodge ram diesel 6.7

Got a question for you what would make a 06 drop rail pressure to 1.5 or so and fluctuates between 6.5 to 8.9 and spikes to 24 or 25k psi and it only does all that at idle or if I let off throttle ever now and then it will drop any suggestions?

Hell ya

Oh shit I got wcfab fprv block off on my lb7 will be changing it.

There is so much truth in this video. Had an 05 5.9 exergy 12mm stroker, exergy 45% overs, studs, springs oversized pushrods, 60psi, and 69mm no gate, ran a 3100us tune once.. and you guessed it rail plug.. That poor truck. It was popping 5k sideways into overdrive. I was injector limited at 740whp. I could only run 4wd or it would just knock the tires off. I'm pretty sure the only reason it lasted about a year. Was it sat broken with billet sonnax inputs, pro series bands, etc. Then, It was all TCS billet stuff. I think i had over 15k in 48re damage before the last 48re was built. The last one was basically ddp's drag truck transmission. dpc converter etc.. One pull it finally killed an injector when I had to lift because it was walking out. I popped 3 turbos. One time it wolverined my down pipe pumped all my oil into my exhaust before I could shut it off. Now I drive an 06 mega cab g56 with efi and 50hp injectors, stock air. Lol I guess it has a twin disc, but all stock. Do I miss doing 80mph over mtn passes towing? Yes, do I have permanent anxiety when I go over 30psi in my stock 5.9. Yes.

In my experience I ran a plug in both of my 5.9s. I had an 04.5 with an nv5600. 175 tune, 48psi, boost fooler etc. Never had an issue until the engine broke a ring at 443k but it tows 12 to 17k daily. I never upped rail pressure though. 23.5k. So in your opinion once you up the pressure that's when you have issues. That would make sense as to why I never did. I had 200k miles on that rail plug before 12 valve swapping the truck😅

I have an 05 and they removed the pressure relief valve and just put a fitting and a line from there back into the cp3? Why would someone do that?

Well add that to the list of things I did wrong 😂

I had to trade my 4th gen for a duramax because the tranny was going out, it’s a 07.5 it’s got a fass system and efi live, what plug should I run on stock injectors ?

How can you tell the difference in plugs and valves? Previous owner put injectors in it but I don’t know if they put a plug in it.

Hi Josh while on this subject. How long should these stock injectors last im at 127 on the oe injectors but my other tow rigg still jas dtock injectors with 30% over injectors with 450 thousand miles on them ive heard the oe injectors only go maybe 200 thousand. Whats the deal i have mm3 tuning in my tow rigg maybe 200 hp over stock teans biullt thanks get well🤠

I've got. 2006 5.9 truck with 100%s and a stock cp3 with a race plug... I can't even get my rail to stay over 23k 🤣🤣

Running a Exergy 32000psi PRV on a Duramax with a 12mm pump and 100% overs haven’t had a issue with rail pressure spiking hard yet

i know the point of the video is to stop us from putting plugs but would it be concerning if its all stock ?

Hey, Josh what do you use for a data logger?

I apologize if this is a stupid question, but this terminology does not apply to the 12 valve p pump “rack plug”, does it?

My 2008 6.7 is not building more than 21,000 psi I installed rail plug nothing changed, New lift pump and filters still no change. Tuning is asking for 26,000 psi

Dose anyone know where I can find arp 6.7 rod bolts

Totally agree with you Josh cummins did spend a lot of time and money with the development of pressure relief valves if they had no purpose they wouldn't be on the rail just think how much money they could save by not fitting them i can see with increasing rail pressure the need for after market ones with relief pressures Hope you feel better soon take care of yourself stay safe and God bless 🙋🏻‍♂️🇬🇧

Dang dude get some DayQuil. Great dang advice though thank you

Does 2.0 TDI CR use that rail valves?

Wouldn’t the injectors take all that pressure away? As long as the truck is running it’s taking fuel

On a dmax especially an lb7 it blows all the way out and leaves you stranded youre not getting at it on the side of the road with an lb7 i choose to run a race plig because i dont like being stranded its got alot to do with driving too habits if you drive like a dumbass teenager all the time full throttle to no throttle all the time then yeah you are going to have alot of issues however if you use it responsibly play with it every once in awhile and then use it like it was intended most of the time as trucks were meant for work youll be fine my truck makes me ALOT of money and i cannot afford to have it down over an FPRV so i drive responsibly and fingers crossed myself and most of my customers no issues

Are these ok to run with stock injectors and just a tune?

I destroyed my share of injectors. I got a 2600bar one from fire punk. I wish I had a knob to adjust rail pressure on the fly. I have theory's I want to test. Like cruising on the interstate and adjusting the rail from 16k to 22k to see if it improves mileage. I would also like to have the injector not deliver any fuel when I let off the throttle until its necessary to keep the engine running. I have been playing with a stock file. I also want the top part of the pedal stroke to be like it is in tune 5 from fire punk. His file is locked, but if it wasn't this would be the part of the file I would be trying to manipulate. I got a lot of it dialed in I am having trouble messing with the fuel tables. I seem to mess something up every time. If I ever make it to FirePunks dyno maybe he can explain what's good or bad about what I am trying to do. I am sure it will cost me a few grand.

😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊 thank you very much for another wonderful short video. Thank you for the insight. I have removed my relief valve. Do the fact that I was not building enough pressure in my rail. I use it as a daily driver. Please let me know when the comments below, I normally run somewhere between 15 and 20 on the pressure rail on my gauge I normally do not exceed 20 on my gauge. I do a little bit but not very much but more it’s a daily driver. Please let me know if I should go ahead and put the original bypass back into it. I have 27 500 and something on the engine now and I would say it’s been in for a while for at least the last 3 to 5 years. Please let me know what your suggestion is. I do not want to blow up anything that’s gonna cost me a fortune please and thank you.😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊

The PPE relief valve actually isn’t a plus it’s a relief think it’s only 2k bar though

It’s on there for a reason don’t take it off

u ever like Flux injectors what's ur website

People still use those lol?? Those should have went bye bye after the days of stacked tuners and pressure box's.

Diesel logic, the illogical choice.

Haha man did you really just say “yall” were running common rail engines when diesel “first came out”? Haha what was that really supposed to mean.

Wish your shop was closer to southern Ohio

I run the Fleece 750 10mm pump with 100 hp Industrial Injection dragon fire sticks, Tater Built 6367 turbo and airdog 4g 165. I have run the rail plug for about 10 years but I am thinking of putting one of those Exergy relief valves on. What would you go with, the 2000 or 2200 bar. This is on a 2004.5 5.9 with a smarty jr tuner.