Aussies....low key RB masters

It's rare to come across someone who actually knows what they're doing with the RB. Great video mate and good explanations. I got a S2 Nissan Stagea RS4-S factory manual with the RB25det-neo lump. It's a fantastic bit if engineering 👌

Mate thank you this is exactly the sort of video I was looking for, what a legend.

Top notch info here. One thing I can add.. I have 2 rb25 neos and they both had the short collar on the crank. People say that some of the neos came with the longer collar, but I've never seen anyone substantiate this info.

very informative and well explained points while opening the engine piece by piece, really love the format and it was never boring in it's entirety. Nice job and good luck in future videos

I was unaware of the oil drain and lower end starvation problem. Thanks for pointing it out.

Solid amount of info cheers man, stoked to find another aussie youtubers who provide good quality content not just vlogs 👌👌

That was a great lesson for a guy like me with an RB25. Thank you! Pip

Legend mate. Thanks for the vid! Detailed as much as it can be.

Thanks for the video! I recently bought a WGNC34 Stagea (my own little unicorn!) with an RB25DET, I now have a little shopping list of things I want to do for reliability!

To my knowledge, no one has ever opened a NEO engine and found an extended snout crank. They all have the standard short snout crank like the S1 and S2.

Finally. An RB25Det with a good plenum and standard runners :) can u do a vid on low mount options for street / track use

Nice Vid. So much great info here, kind of surprised your not more popular. Stick with it man, I could see this channel blowing up.

Such a badass video man. Too bad motivedvd don’t make videos like these. Great stuff learning about the RB25!

Very informative video thank you sir, glad I watched this video before my 200sx RB swap.

BTW nice set up in the garage. Looks like a dream.

Great Video. Your shed setup is wicked too

This was an AWESOME video bro

Very good and informative video mate

Very nice video man!

keen as to see a SR20DET version of this video... although mine is a 54C aka RNN14 aka GTiR version (AWD)

Very informative video thank you. New subscriber.

Great information, thanks

Very cool to know, I have a car with a RB25 in my near future

Very helpfull thanks mate! New sub👍

Great info! Cheers

I got neo so no need extended collar on the crank? Will do the oil drain from the back of the head & put a restrictor on oil feed.👌 thanks you so much for the information.

Thank you very much for this info. So all these problems were sorted in the neo rb25? Oil drain, oil pump and rods? Or did I misunderstand

Awesome info

This is how I'd like my RB build vids to look...

This is great, finally someone who isn't just repeating garbage they read on the Internet.. :D

Hey mate good video, currently in the process of rebuilding a Rb25 and doing all the usual things like arp head studs metal headgasket n1 oil pump crank collar and the external head drain my question is about the oil restrictors what ones would you recommend for a daily/ drift car but not all the time.. are the stock ones fine or would you really recommend getting smaller ones? Trying to sort as much of the oil issues as I can while it's apart.. Any help would be appreciated.

very good thank you!

Wow, I would like to bring an engine to you if possible. I had a great engine that lasted a long time, hill climbs, and drift events, it dropped cyl5. I guess now its about $$$$.

Neo's all have short oil pump drive just like the 33's unfortunately. The interesting part is that they have 1.2mm restrictors in the block from factory and do not have an external head drain and seem to be fine. Also I would not recommend enlarging the oil return holes in the block as it can compromise the strength of the block in high hp applications even if it is just 1mm.. Rear head drain and appropriate restrictors are ok for most people.

Max, U know this.

Nice Thankyou

can you do a video just like this for rb20's please

How did you go getting the harmonic balance off with RH threaded bolt?

My Neo hydro locked on first start after engine swap due to ecu perminantly grounding injector no 2. fixed that and it ran ok for 4 months. Then just popped that rod at 4-5k rpm on half throttle randomly. I assume the rod got bent from the hydro lock. Massive hole in the block, sump and head ok, so all the energy went sideways. How does the crank fare after something like that?

Which type of performance harmonic balancer is best for the rb25??

Hydraulic Tappets. They creep shut over night, stops them starting in the morning, and makes the ECU correct constantly. Need a NEO head or TOMEI solid lifter kit.

Cylinder 1 piston has been hitting the head quench pads.. How has the big end bearing gone missing but no scoring done to crank and rod?

I heard something is wrong with my idle circuit causing cold issues-cant drive it at night and I must use sunoco's 100 octane. What do you say to that?

Hi, that one nice video there.. I am looking for a 400 whp setup on my rb25 (series 1) wich harmonic balancer would you recommend?

you are the best

The good old “long haired Max”

Are these the same similar issues with rb26,rb20 etc motors?

Is "shimming" oil pump a thing? Heard a Texan takin bout it.

all rb's are the same my 25/30 spun bearings from no oil pressure and over reved

This includes the neo too or no?

@LeperchaunLaboratory Do the issues mentioned apply to both standard RB25 & RB25neo ? I’m new to RB engines so I’m taking notes.

How much power can I make? Well, how long is a piece of string?

What if I had all basic bolt ons. Hks2535 and water/meth. Would 1bar be safe?

Can you bolt up a 25 neo head to a series 2 block ? Is that possible ?

run an rb20 and rev all day long with bolt ons. thicker bore spacing. if you look after them they are great

MoTeC ecu is great right???

Awesome vid, do you know if rb30's have extended pump drive, i've got one in an R34

Are any of the oil mods you mentioned in this video necessary for a daily driver RB25? Im lookin at a stock R33 GTS25T for my daily (mostly highway) but i dont plan on modding it or tracking it until i have all the parts for a full forged build, at that point ill do the collar and channel restrictors etc. i will not be hitting rev limiter while its stock, maybe a decent pull on an on ramp but nothing crazy. Thanks man, the video is awesome! 🤙🏼

Talking about the oil pump. Do you recommend changing the oilpump to a n1 oilpump? I ve heard they would fit better.

hi i hope you reply to this im planning on doing my first drift car and people say sr20 is better than an rb25det cuz the rb25det has shitty torque compared to sr20 can i get ur tips and shit? sr20’s are cheaper in my country but rb25’s sounds heavenly

As much as I love to do a rb26 I won't build one then walls oil problems . Low budget in the states I would do a 2jz in a 300zx boost 800 hp fun daily with out the headaches

this is what i was looking for :) i have s14a, with stock rb25det s2, nice compression, ecumaster emu, top mount chinese gt3076. boost at this moment is 1.2 bar (17-18 psi). Is this safe for a daily car ?

Shed some light on my rb25det series 1. Just randomly shuts off while goin 100. Starts back up but not sure. Cleaned every connector that’s important.

i was about to buy a rb25 s2 but i think ill just wait then...

You need to check block integrity. I can't remember the numbers but I believe most good decent RB blocks should read like somewhere around 260-280. Can't remember tool name it knocks the steel and gets a reading of the strength of the steel. It's a manufacturing thing nothing is created equal they may all be the same but some blocks were just lucky enough to be slightly stronger than the one made before it ect. Even same batches ect can produce minor differences in the quality. And, obviously, not thrashing it will help. unless your racing, anything more than 400hp is kind of pointless considering the speed limit.

It’ doesn’t have any burps on throttle sorts and idles fine . Just a random shut off on the highway .

Gifted mam fantastic

Is there a dry sump solution for the oiling problem?

What do you do when your new r33 coupe rb25 series 1 started cutting off, stalling, hesitating, shutting off randomly? A new maf didnt fix it. Waste and tickets from a cop on the way.

So the RB Neo is better than the earlier RB engines?

Just go closed deck and be done with it 👍🏻 These buggers are starting to go up in price, grab a couple of good spares b4 they get silly

Need collar crank and drain kit for only 400hp ! ( rb25neo det

Hey people! Hope some of you can help! I have a R33 GTST Type M on 166000 km (106k miles) I’ve got a crunch while shoving it into 1st gear. It’s ok if I take my time but if I want to quickly put it in 1st it crunch’s. Probably 3 out of 10 times. Can anyone suggest anything.... maybe new oils? 🤷🏻‍♂️ Cheers in advance 👍🏻

For anyone not highly skilled in these fields.... Maybe too high rpm and oil temp/too low viscosity etc etc. Which with an unbalanced/straightened stock crank has allowed the bearing surfaces to break completely through to oil film and.... the rest is history. I watch my oil temp as much, if not more, as coolant temp, which can rise or fall within a few corners of reduced load but high oil temps once climbing at a faster rate than ideal, takes more drastic changes in driving style for a longer duration of time to bleed the heat back out of everything (highest speed with lowest engine load/rpm as possible) Too higher temp and poor balance does damage sooner than dropping oil pressure. Invest in forged components that use a high quality metal compositions and balance everything as precisely as possible for how you intend the engine be used (short stroke vs displacement is your friend for high rpm without requiring mega$$$)

Gotta use netto

All good stuff my dude, just a heads up tho its pronounced like my-KROM-i-tər not micro-meter.

Hey brother, might never see this but I gotta ask. I’ve got a RB25 in my s14 i stupidly bought someone’s project car it runs like a champ, well did! After the starter took a shit I noticed that once I started to get into the throttle the engine would spit and sputter like it wasn’t firing on one cylinder. I chalked it up as bad coil packs. And parked it till I had to funds and time to fix it. Fast forward 1 1/2 years here we are and I’m fixing to begin the tear down process, should I go ahead and pull the engine to give it a good once over. Or should I just change out the packs and call it good??

Ps, you speak of flowing heads alot.... XD

So what u tranna say is keep off high rpm

The explanations of what he's doing as the video progresses is all mutes by music?

You mean you can only upgrade it just a little bit not full set upgrades

Only got music no voice?

If you're going to pull it down you may as well just go rb30/25 and be done with it.

Rb 25 r31

The best fix for a RB25-30 is a Barra swap

all rb engine's have The same problem as the RB26 which is they suffer with oil pump failure once you hit the high horsepower numbers sorry if you're hitting over 700 horsepower then more than likely you are going to suffer with oil pump failure if you are just running the standard oil pump

Most all engines will grenade if not taken care of lol

You know VG30's dont have any of these issues in the video

I've made subtitles of your video in Chinese, trying to post it on a Chinese video site but I thought its a good idea to ask for your permission first, I'm not using your content to make money or anything, just trying to bring the knowledge into the Chinese car community, is it ok with you?

I wouldn't be surprised if it ran a bearing due to silicone on the oil pick up , you really don't need a whole tube to seal your sump bruh, 4wd block or not😂 you got the wrong location for the head drain , its the frost plug with the flat surface above where u showed. also remove the factory oil cooler , and fit a thread back to the block and run straight off the block. there's also 3 oil restrictors, one in front for vct , and the two you've shown. you can block the rear feed all together , run 2x 1mm in the front two. (you need some flow for vct) also another thing that goes a long way when drifting or track use is an accusump and a baffled and gated sump.

Rn rb with a dead bearing, funny that.

slap the rocker cover one more time because you havent done it enough

mate, I want to sent u a car.

So nissan didnt know this before putting them in cars to cause you to spend money smh

0:18 "what is the actual killer for these motors"....."a BARRA"

All those issues you should of just bought a 2jz