That's great! I probably could lighten the seed rate but this definitely shades all of the weeds out and provides a nice thatch cover for my late summer seeding. It does come in very thick.

It won't be as tall as this rye. It will probably be around 4 feet tall when I terminate it after I seed my fall seeds into it.

I buy mine from the local co-op feed and seed.

@@HobbyHarvest thanks. I did not have time to get over there this summer. I will have to look for it next time I go.

Yeah! I have clover in a couple trails but not all of them.

Mine is 1/4 acre so 1/8 of each type but I'd imagine you could get away with half that size or even smaller. The advantage is that the deer will go after the peas and beans in the early season which gives the brassicas a chance to establish. Once it gets colder and those beans and peas die off, the brassicas are still green and lush loving those cooler temperatures.

That can actually make this whole process easier. Just look to where the deer are naturally using the topography and just enhance it a little more or block off routes you don't want them to take and it will put them right in a pinch point in front of you.

​@@HobbyHarvest I have 300 meters (900 feet) incline at 45 degrees or steeper. Most of it is covered in 12-20 feet tall deciduous trees. We have mostly red deer and some roe deer here. I am very very fortunate and have the seasonal movement going through here - and two glens where I can see the deer. I will for sure do some work at the top of theses glens to funnel the deer where there is a clear shot 🙂 Not intending to be negative - only describing the situation my place here in Norway.

Yeah, I'm surrounded by limestone quarries so I can still get it for under $4 a bag but I remember when it was under $2. Everything has gotten more expensive.

Thanks, you too!

That depends a lot on how thick your current habitat is. On my SE WI property I'm right on a creek/marsh area so the deer are used to being in some pretty thick cover all of the time so much so I probably could get away with a cattle shoot but on my NW WI property, I have a lot of mature woods so in that case I side a lot more on making those perpendicular barricades very long but spacing them fairly far apart. It all depends on the specific terrain but think of it as if you were driving a car really fast through the area - you can make slight turns but no sharp turns so just make sure you're blocking off every slight turn but leave the sharp turns open. Leaving the trail itself open as well of course. The deer typically won't take the sharp turns unless they need to escape. You can always monitor and adjust if they are jumping off the trail at a certain point.

Thanks for the reply. I'm in the pineywoods of East tx. Lots of green trees caps but nothing on ground level as food goes. Lots of woods and vines. Cover is fair. I won't go crazy as hinge cuts and will go at a nice flow for the funnel. No sharp turns. Just finished my poor man's 2 weeks ago. Deer started grazing it yesterday. Thanks again for the videos. Keep it up!

What are the pretty blue blossoms on the green trail you showed. Deer resistant plant?

@@thebadboo4875 That's Dame's Rocket. It's actually an invasive. Clearing out more of the invasive species is still on my long to-do list.

From my local feed and seed. They source it from all of the seed suppliers including the food plot seed suppliers. I buy individual seed and then make my own mixes.

Where in this video did I say we were eating the plants? Listen, the science is very clear. There are much more harmful things that you're using INSIDE your own home regularly but you continue to use them. Why?

Why does he need credentials to offer advice for what has worked for him? He's not telling you that you must follow his outline to succeed. Just free advice.....that he will make small profits from others watching.

@@jaseast I agree, you get what you pay for…

Thanks!

Wow, thanks!

I appreciate that!

Thanks! Definitely a great time to cut some trees when you don't have to drag them with all of their leaves on them.

And if so, does it expand and take over, so to speak?

It does come back but it spends most of its first year to establish its roots and then really takes off in its 2nd to 3rd year. Please please please watch all of my switchgrass videos and the switchgrass videos of other creators if you want to go that route because it will save you from wasting a year or two trying to get it started. I haven't noticed it spreading but it is right against my food plot on one side and woody browse on the other.

​@@HobbyHarvestI will definitely do that. Thanks Ken

Is there something else you might recommend, besides witch grass? That gives you that same type of effect. I have some open area, I'm going to plant conifer type trees and probably some Aspen spin-offs. But want to create a buffer/corder for the deer in the meantime. Thoughts? Appreciate it my friend. Thanks much

That's a great way to do it!

It's great if you have a place that needs screening and gets a lot of sun. Downsides are it doesn't stand up well later in the season if you're far enough north that it's going to see snow and you need to plant it every year.

It took a couple watches, but great video. Very informative. Thank you ! 🙏😊🇨🇦