David R Lentz, Columbus, Ohio, USA (Saturday, 22 June, 2024) (Edited for content, and to correct errors.) I am looking for a veteran model-builder’s explication of building accurately and detailing Hong Kong Models’s 1:32nd-scale kit of the Boeing B-17G Flying Fortress USAAF Heavy Bomber. Your explanation below the title reads “Getting underway with HK’s 1/48 B-17G Flying Fortress”. However, your playlist reads “Hk Models b-17g 1/32 build Mike Anderson 1/11”. Which is the case, please? Also, are you Mike Anderson? I’m David. Already you find disappointment in the kit, which troubles me. An especially salient case in point is the flight deck bulkhead with the “pill shaped things that need to be painted yellow”. I have seen better in 1970s Monogram kits! Incidentally, could these raised shapes be portable oxygen tanks for altitudes round 3,000 metres and above? Therefore, do any aftermarket firms make any detail set (photo-etch, resin, 3D, etc.) of the interior: 1) flight deck; 2) radioman’s and navigator’s stations; 3) bomb bay; 4) bombardier’s station; 5) waist gunners’ stations, with improved machine-guns for each position, 6) tail gunners’ station, 7) dorsal and ball turrets; 8) positionable figurines of flight crew, suitable for placing at their posts. Externally, 1) engines (one likely would buy just one to display with cowl removed); 2) cowl exhausts and turbo-superchargers; 3) landing gear bays. Related airfield accoutrements: 1) tow tractor, 2) bomb trolleys, 3) fuel truck, 4) bomb loader, 5) airfield concrete slabs; 6) positionable figurines of crew chief and mechanics; 7) air-raid machine-gun nest; 8) headquarters/control tower, with air wing commander. Alternately, could you fashion the masters of replacement parts (e.g., the pilot’s yoke) that an aftermarket detailing/correction set maker could reproduce? From what little I know of such things, 3D printing would be the best option. The molds to form resin parts last for just round seventy or eighty castings. The dust from resin cast parts is toxic, too. This kit actually has two iterations: early, with the older tail gun position, and late-war, with the Cheyenne tail gun position. I also would like to build a 1:32nd-scale kit of a Boeing B-17F, and another of a Boeing B-17E. Amongst numerous others. If this 1:32nd-scale kit proves an annoyance, I, as Doctor of Silliness (my friends make fun of my jokes; my life is and has been terribly difficult, so I laugh at suffering to ward it away) prescribe a year’s treatment with one each of Tamiya’s kits of the Chance Vought F4U Corsair USN/-USMC/FAA Fighter series in the same scale; and to continue till your jokes are sillier than mine. Then continue on to Hong Kong Models’s 1:32nd-scale kits of the Consolidated B-24D/J Liberator USAAF Heavy Bomber. Next, convert one to a Consolidated PB4Y-1 Liberator USN Maritime Convoy Patrol Bomber in the USN tri-colour camouflage scheme, airborne, its propellers spinning; Border Model makes a 1:35th-scale plastic model kit of the conning tower and a portion of the hull of a DKM Typ VIIc Unterseeboot (U-Boat) that if I could, I would display as it succumbs to the fearsome blast of a pair of 160-kg U.S. Navy air-dropped depth charges. I next would modify a third B-24D kit to make a replica of a Consolidated C-87 Liberator Express USAAF High-Altitude Cargo Transport. Also, could one convert a B-24J kit to a model of a B-24H or a B-24M, or both? I personally prefer posing my aircraft in flight, though some ground displays can be quite interesting; an early USMC Corsair under a line of palm trees upon a Pacific island beach, the crew chief and mechanics repairing its engine whilst the aviator awaits their completion. I also would ask that you create a build video series of each model.

The cockpit looks great but I believe you're missing all the wires that are behind the Martin Baker ejection seats, but I like the way it's coming along

It's a primer but it could be used as a matt varnish 😊

sei eccezionale ed è molto simpatico il tuo modo di parlare, descrivendo con parole forti anche qualche passaggio..impegnativo. potresti suggerirmi i corretti colori? io uso i tamiya e gunze. grazie

I got mine at a massive discount, despite seeing all the issues with it, still excited to work with the kit.

A LOT of painstaking work, but looks REALLY nice

Looks good.

Hello! Tell me how do you get that super glossy black base coat? With all the steps please

This seem very over engineered.

outstanding work.i have mine in the stash next on the bench I only hope I can achieve a similar outcome .

I mix the transpiratory with an acrylic colour, the benefit is that I get my prime & first coat in one step.

By the way, at 32:58 you mention the fragility of the masts and other rigging poles. They are definitely tricky and quite delicate. However, doing metal of any type will be a challenge becasue, aside from the mast itself, the rigging poles are tapered at the ENDS (i.e., thicker in the middle, tapering at some point to a thinner end). So, this means the thinnest part of the pole is the part that goes into the hole and is afixed to the boa - the point where th epost strength is needed! Nonetheless, I used thin rubber line (E-Z-Line) that workd great. You do have to be very careful, and make precise measurements to guage the "cause and effect" of each step becasue, with the stretchy line, putting added tension at any point affects the entire rigging system. Nonetheless, I, a new novice at 56, was able to rig it just fine with good effect and no sagging. Of course, it's nbever perfect, but neither would the boat itself have been perfectly square accross all its rigging poles. Using brass solid stock might be an option, then sanding down the ends for the taapering effect, alpong with removing some of the fittings from the plastic parts to place them on the brass to match the intended detail. IF ANYONE KNOWS OF AFTERMARKET RIGGING POLES/MASTS, PLEASE POST THEM. Most opf the photo-etch kits do have some extras for the rigging - like the pulley/block-and-tackle joining points at several places, Also, there is some new aftermarket material that includes the details necessary to convert the antennae systemn to a pneumatic/automatic (non-manual) one, which happened not long after the launch of the U9 I wish there were a deck gun upgrade becasue, as I understand it, the two .303 machine guns for AA use were only in use in the very first few days of the way, to be replaced very soon by a medium-bore (4"?) deck gun for a more standard early-war configuration (AA position on cigarette deck, and canon immediately fore of the sail for use during surface action against armed boats. Anyone know what type off deck gun with which the early U-9 class ships were fitted (and bonus question: where a resin kit can be purchased)?

I use Stynylrez. The gray and white, anyway. Haven't used the black, yet. A couple of points: Do NOT let it freeze! If it freezes, it's ruined and nothing can be done to restore it to usability. I've also read of others having it go bad when stored under bright lights. Keep it shaded. I use a single action, external mix airbrush with a .5mm needle/nozzle to spray it at 20 psi. I wouldn't really recommend using a double action internal mix brush because, as you discovered, it does take a bit more work to clean up.

jesus buddy

"It doesn't matter all that much what you put underneath your paint". No kiddin'? Because it's primer? Gosh! Pure Genius!

Just a quick note. Im glad to know the GW is the better choice. I started to skip anything on the Kitty until I realized how much I could learn about fixing bad kits. Glad you followed though despite your Kitty Fs clearly expiring early

I havent been able to find the completion vids of the Meng Weasel. So curious to see how it went.

Well...after building several takom kits I came to conclusion to avoid this brand in future. The simple reason I am fed up with takom is poor instruction, assembly manuals they provide with kits. Apart from mistakes in the instructions, information you get is sometime insufficient or misleading. I wish takom spend some time to prepare decent kit instructions. For example I really appreciate aproach of Eduard or Copper State Models as kit producers as they take kit manuals subject very seriously.. The hetzer is still waiting on my shelf to be build, labelled "no more future purchase of takom products". I count that competitors sooner or later will give some better alternatives and Takom maybe learn the lesson.

My neighbor worked for Kittyhawk. He stayed unemployed for about 6 months. He foreclosed on his house, moved to NJ and fell victim to the opioid epidemic. I heard he passed last year. And honestly....he 100% deserved it for giving us such terrible quality products. Good riddance.

I know that its alomst two years back, since you post this video, and maybe you can't remember and give me an answer to my question, but..... I'll ask you.... I saw that you primed with GX2 the oleo struts, and then paint them with K Colors Steel How much time did you let the spaint cure, in order to mask them with tape? I am aksing you, because no matter how much time I let them cure (I let them cure almost 24h) when I take the masking tape off..... I got peeling problems

This has been an excellent how-to all of the way through - great work ! gGven the end result, were the HGW rivets worth the time and effort. If you had to do it again, would you consider using the rivet sets ? Camera's have their limitations...

Model building expert, camera work amateur. 😂

Shame to say,where is Tanmodels now..I have this kit and in box it is impressive..

I have a 1:32 USAF F-4 Phantom which I can paint in "European one" camo for European bases or SEA camo for Vietnam. I'm leaning more towards SEA as the F-4 was such an iconic fighter during the Vietnam War period.

Although I enjoy 3rd & 4th gen aircraft, I now want to build something from WW2. I prefer the " Marble" method over pre-shading & have developed my own way of getting that worn paint job over the years.

Doog, thanks for taking all the time to do these videos. I learn a lot. I have several Eduard PE sets and I know you basically see nothing once it’s buttoned up. I’m considering not glueing the top fuselage piece so you can lift it off and look into the cockpit and radio room. Any thoughts on that? Thanks, Paul Moore

crazy after all these years since this kits release there is still no build review video out there.its like everyone unboxed and shelved it.

What a bummer! Thanks for being a True friend to the modeler.

Your commentary and review are great barring your filthy mouth. So, because of your language I had to turn it off and go somewhere else.

Hey Matt. One hint since you’re into 3D printing now: Try the resin as normal „putty“! I learned it’s a good and easy putty to fill gabs, ejection pins etc. I put it where needed and then I put the plastic part for 60 seconds or so under a cheap nail polish UV lamp. I find this printing resin is far easier to sand than melted plastic putty as example

I have watched this series 2 times so far and have gotten a lot of good tips for my P-47M from the videos, thank you! I’m still struggling to find good reference photos of the rear side of the instrument panel (wires/cables/connectors) and how they terminate at the cockpit “Pit” bulkhead. Some good ones from the Smithsonian Air and Space, but they do not show the termiinal connections. Can you guide me to some references?

I would love to see the comparison to the AMK kit also

Hello. I would like to purchase the set of tracks. Would you please assist me. Thank you.

8 years & its still true!😅

I’m lost the instructions are so bad for the ordnance I don’t know how to connect anything

Think there's a chance they'll release a Japanese F-4EJ Kai Phantom in 1/48?

Excellent results as always. I have a couple of questions. How do you transfer the hairspray liquid to the airbrush? Also how you can chip a lacquer based color with such ease? If my memory serves me well, the undercoat is a lacquer based also color (LP11), which makes it more difficult or rather impossible to chip over with the same thinner as its top coat? I am trying to understand how you can achieve such a good result in chipping two chemically identical liquids. My apologies If I missed something in between your excellent tutorial.

I made this and found it the worst kit ever. I actually threw it at the wall and went out and bought the new revell version 1/32 scale

Why do you need to add swearing to the video? Kids might be watching this!

Hi. Do you know the kit number for this kit as I would love to try and build it. Of course I won't do it justice like you do. Thanks

Not far from what happened to the actual bulgarian MiG-23's. I have to say, your paint job looks spot on! I honestly would have bought the model from you!

I dunno if I’m just super dumb but I always ruin the rod. It doesn’t stay in place and falls out.

Man I love watching you work. This is very satisfying to watch, in truth; my dad was on the CVN64, in 63/64. He was a redshirt durring flight ops. ans was a ACRCON and was writing reports for the air wing pre. and post miossions. He loved the Phantoms and Skyhaws. Thnak you.

Kitty Hawk models are back

Dhere do I get Kcolor? Does it still exist?

Great job, which clear coat you add after weathering? thanks ;)

Yes absolutely love yours contents , I learn so mutch because of your talent ( scale :) Thank you so mutch

Another work of art Matt. Museum quality for sure

Hi Matt. I have never tried the hair spray technique before so do I need to use that chipping affect stuff you show on this video? Thanks