The saws were made from 1979 until the early 90s there's a good chance there is a date stamped in the hood over the sparkplug

The 026 Sthil is my all time favorite chainsaw I've owned & ran many different brands & sizes 😊

1 HDT is better than 1HZ . HZ is inderect injection and prone to cracking heads, 1HDT IIS direct injection and turbo and are amazing.

that is why land cruiser

How do you say too cheap is a bad mfr, without saying too cheap is a bad mfr

The 1 HZ engine is the most reliable, that ever was built. The know - how over 32 years with these engines in heavy terrains I never had problems. Thanks to TOYOTA. I love the 1Hz.

Toocheap wouldn't say it if he had stepped in it, and Pegg says it as a matter of course. From one end to the other. And that's why I love it

Not fair, that you have two of those beasts.

Yes! 🔥🔥🔥

Hunny come quick! Toocheap uploaded!

I’ve got the twin to it. Exact same thing on looks and after filing the points the carb needs rebuilt The funs a fixin to start. Great video.

Nice work as always mate. I get the pleasure of working on a lot of these cruisers for farmers, often a lot rougher than this! The engine is a 1HZ, they aren't massively powerful or great on fuel but they are super reliable, in rough use they'll far outlast the rest of the cruiser. Today I worked on one with a blown front diff, the farmer brought me a "new" set of diff gears for it that have been left in the weather for years. He wants me to buff the rust off and fit them hahahaha. I told him it's a terrible idea but I'm kinda keen to see how it will hold up.

Oh yeah, where you been buddy

Enjoyed getting a glimpse into the toocheaptosmoke electrical diagnosis protocol.

Wow great fault finding! You traced that problem pretty quick. I am surprised I dont see more of these on U.S media. These old landcruisers were the only vehicle I ever trusted to take right into the outback. These engines can get very high mileage and keep going.

No way these new "Advanced" engines would run like those diesels do after all those years

"its only original once"

a loop to increase voltage ?

goes to show its mostly operator error

respect for rocking new boots, safety first!

At 17:33, closed captioning said "Music". Yep.

Just loyal

I dunno if it's true. I heard in the early days of Toyota they had a internal staff meeting and basically asked departments for ideas on how to cut down a bit on quality/reliability so their products wouldn't last so long..

G’Day from Australia. That’s motor is a 1HZ 4.2 litre . One of the best Diesel engines ever made . Just gotta do the timing belt which is easy . I’ve seen those engines do 800000 kilometres many many times and still run beautifully

It also anti theft protect being a standard

There you are!! Will wonders never cease. Bout to call a welfare check, but that costs money and I ain't paying for that.

this is unbelievable, well done man

the bed on that land cruiser is sick! also easiest revival yet?

No that’s chainsaw is from the late 80’s or early 90’s,

When you showed the bottom there's a ring around the body of the jack and the waffle /Simpson name bottom , that piece can be un-screwed to clean /replace the gears . I own about six of these super jacks 20-50 tons ,i used them to lift houses for shoring to replace foundations . They'll lift a house no problem .

Bar & Chain oil is even better than motor oil.

Parts are still available for these just look online. Looks mint, with patience it will run good, all two stroke engines can be a little temperamental at times, pay extra fit a GOOD Quality spark plug i use NGK, not Chinese unless they are EASY to get at ( not like these little saws, )

I call it junkyard box for going to salvage yard

So basically all you did was buy a new battery in use it in the jump box i thought you charge up the dead battery in use that so the dead battery is useless

"Git yer motor runnin'...."😎😎😎

WELL IM GONNA BE FIT TO BE TIED~ HAAAAAA

Just picked up the same unit today I am wondering what do those two wires do and what do they go to?

ITS A LONGEVITY THING!!!!! KEEP IT TO YOURSELF OUT THERE! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO~ kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jbKhapukrraafYk.html

You wanna do this on a nice hot, dry day. Because the steel frame on your truck will hold moisture. And once you pack all that oil and grease onto your frame, it will trap that moisture under it. Whenever I paint steel in the colder weather, I always heat it up with a torch first to burn all the moisture out of it.

6:30 - I am showing my wife this. She doesn't believe hording pays off. Wish me luck!

The block inside you were talking about is called the sleeve and it rides on the plunger. Even if the plunger was stuck in the up position the sleeve would still be on the bottom because it's in a shutdown position. All the way down leaves the spill Port open. All the way up it completely blocks to spell port and you have full throttle.

I bought one of these at a yard sale today. I think my brake is stuck. It says in the manual to apply pressure to the handle while in down position. I have hung from the chain and no go..I think a tear down is in my future

I carry roughly 140lbs of tools in my truck plus a lunch box welder and 80lbs of spare parts in case some brakes. This guys is just getting started

You’re a real one for this

Great video Could you pls add link for the water pump replacement kit and carburetor kit thanks so much sir.

General Shepherd likes this video!

Wow! I have the same engine on an Ariens and the crack is in the same damn place. Imagine that!

Very interesting repair! I wonder, does it need nuts on the inside too so that the prevents compression and not just extension? Any updates on how well it's still running? I just used JB Weld (a lot of JB Weld) and a C-Clamp.

My hypothesis, is that over time that gasket on top will shrink which causes the clamping force of the bolts to lessen so much that the bolts can back out. I also believe that the top cover provides structural rigidity to the engine block. So once the clamping force no longer exists from the bolts to hold the top cover tight, the structural rigidity of the top cover is lost and the block starts ripping itself apart. So many people have said that the fix is to loc-tite the bolts. While that might prevent the bolts from backing out it isn't going to address the loss of clamping force as the gasket degrades. I think the real solution is to have so sort of brass washer integrated into the gasket around all the bolt holes. This would allow the clamping force to remain despite the gasket shrinking over time. At that point it's just an oil leak to fix instead of an engine block. However, you could just throw gasket maker on the top and bottom of the gasket which would probably be a more permanent fix for the leaks.

You are the man💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼🇺🇸🇺🇸