Does the KP also focus this fast?

@kobie: as I requested. Please write down each step for connecting camera with the software in sequence. It would be great help for all other users. You have been of great help through your other videos.... I tried 5 times, but failed. Didn't have any problem with ImageSync connection both in my iPhone and iPad. But I want connection with laptop. Is wificommander better than ImageSync? In what ways? Thanks.

Spent good amount of time connecting my camera Pentax K3 iii with the software. Though there was no problem connecting with Pentax Image Sync. Any help. Thanks

Oh for a 100 macro PLM AW. What is find the 35 macro great at is just a walk around lens on vacation. Great for people, street, outdoors and if you find a great flower no problem. It is great at colors and sharpness. The same for the 50 macro, but I just love macro…

Does it work with PK3 iii + Monochrome. Thanks for letting us know about this important software and making this video....Ricoh/Pentax is really extremely disappointing. As there are many well known Tethering softwares for almost 250 cameras but not for Pentax... This software is an exception. I will love to donate the creator, but first I have to try it. Thanks.

Great video and good advice. Maybe I'm biased on the advice because i approach wildlife photography the exact same way 🙃😊?

Patience is the key.

I like the rap...and your video! Thank you!

Great video! So true. In my insect macro I found that if I take enough shots of bee faces a few will look like they're smiling. They're moving around so much, it's usually not possible to compose those shots. I just try to be aware of the background and compose that, while taking a zillion shots. You should add a hoodie with just the logo, no text, to your merch shop!

In our modern world of instant gratification, patience is so rarely practiced. It is sometimes better to not pick up the camera but to observe an animals behavior for a while. This can give you insights to it's pattern of movement and it's zone of comfort in regards to your presence. Example: you have good luck in getting images of Red Wing Blackbirds. It took me almost 4 months to finally get a shot of one that insists on hiding deep within the branches of my neighbors tree. I can clearly hear him but it wasn't until today that I actually got a few shots of him.

Kobie Yesterday I was walking to the park (I am walking 2 miles per day for recovery) I wife spotted a bird perched on a branch I had the K3- Mark 111 with me and the 55 - 300 PlLM with me I quickly photographed the bird it is a rarity a South American Pin Tailed Windom I photographed one 3 years ago and not seen one since. The tail on the Male during mating season grows to 2 feet long and looks like 2 black ribbons hanging off the back of the bird. I would equate this to your picture of the Snow Owl you photographed as the Windom is a rarity

My main thing is insect macro, and my advice: try a larger diffuser. Even a super-cheap one. I'm using the the Pentax 100mm macro with a Godox V860 but when I've used a cheap Metz flash I get the same results (just with longer recharge time... <3 godox V-series) Even with the "overkill" double diffuser you might still be a bit small in diffuser size for good insect macro. Also, I use the Godox at 1/4th manual, because for insects IME recharge time is the most important thing because the keeper rate will be low. TTL mode gives great results, but then you get a lot of frames without flash which are useless anyway. The only thing I change in insect macro for different conditions is the ISO. Try it! :)

Kobie, you mentioned at the start of the video that you have been using the 150-450 mm lens recently. I just purchased the K3 111 with the 55-300 plm. I like the focus speed of this combo. However I will be driving from Brantford to Victoria BC at the end of September and will be using the camera at every opportunity for wildlife photography. I am looking at the 150-450 for the extra reach or the 300mm f4 with the 1.4 TC. How do you find the image quality with the 150-450? I can't remember if you have ever mentioned using the 300mm with the 1.4 TC.

Good advice. Thank you Kobie.

Thanks for the video. Everything works great but the data is missing, camera settings, GPS, etc when I download. Have checked the phone that all permissions are on. Any other suggestions. The GPS info that is coming from the phone.?

Have you tried running the colder plugs as recommended by the Saab community BCPR7ES?

What Shake Reduction mode do you use when tracking birds, Auto or panning as I've read that auto has a sort of panning mode built in

Thanks again for testing out the complexities of the K3III. It's like learning a foreign language, but great when you get the understanding.

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Kobie I never said it didn't work on static subjects it just seems to work better in AFS for static subjects I find it no problem to toggle user modes between AFC, AFS, AFC Small and AFS Small for bird photography as I find it better on smaller birds in the small setting instead of the bird getting lost in the back ground I cannot drive for 6 weeks after surgery I have taken the time to refurbish my Pentax Spotamatic film camera I bought mainly because it was in a kit with a number of Takumar lenses in fact it sat unused until somebody gave me a roll of film that's when I discovered the light Seals were bad and for a few dollars I replaced the seals with supplies from Walmart

Thanks for testing that! My only problem with birds on the K3-iii is that it often focuses on the water instead of the bird.

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Pentax UK sent everyone they could think of a 17... Pentax US didn't send you one?? LOL! 🙂

I’d be curious on more of your finding. Let us know what you find out. Is there going to be a run on Pentax after everyone who purchased the film camera get an itch for what else Pentax has? I shoot mirrorless and Pentax older film cams. Going to jump back into another Pentax DSLR the k1 and k3iii at the same price definitely makes it a little harder. Or just a kf.

Sorry if I'm missing something really obvious but how does the camera know what you want to be in focus when the shutter releases?

i shoot field hockey cycling road and track and the occasional softball with a70-200mm and 150-450mm i use af C small select type 3 s with af hold off seems to work for me with the k3iii . you get some miss some how it goes high shutter speeds help

I have been doing sport photography since 2009 and have always used Pentax. I currently, since 2015, do sports photography as a profession for universities and high schools nationally. I have not found anything but positive success with my 70-200mm f2.8 and 300m f4 lenses. I don't have the 55-300mm, so can't compare. I currently use 2 K-3 Markiii's and a K-3. I always shoot in AF-C. I have found that Type 2 Autofocus is much better for action sports, Focus Action 4, Subject priority off, TAv, panning, Release Priority, Shutter not lower than 800 (although it is usually fine down to 500 inside), aperture f4 mostly when outside. When I have trouble, it is the camera body or the buffering of the SD cards that causes it to pause or not seem to focus. I have not ever had a problem with my 70-200mm f2.8 unless I dropped it...then had to get a new one.  I would love to try the 55-300mm sometime, although not being a f2.8 is a problem. The sports I shoot are soccer, cross country, Nordic skiing (cross country), track and field, as well as occasionally, golf.

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

I most shoot Sports. Football (European), motocross, cycling, cricket etc both with Sony A74 Tamron 35-150 Sony 200-600 as well with K1-ll Pentax 70-200 f2.8 Pentax 150-450. Had 2 copies of PLM 55-300 and 3 bodies of K3-lll but went back to K1-ll because of better IQ, colors, exposure etc. Sony vs Pentax is totally different techniques. Sony tracks the subject while with Pentax I have to track myself which I like better, more in control. To get great photos in focus is not a problem with a slow camera as K1-II. AF-C, spot focus or 9 points selective (selective slows down the camera a bit) and maximum Hold will nail so much more than anything else of fancy settings and I get as many % keepers as with A74 and better IQ as a bonus. Sony has other great things that makes it useful. Tested to follow hockey players skating around the whole rink with fokus locked on one player and it just glues to him even when other comes between, its just amazing to nail shots after shot with endless buffer never stopping the camera. Buffer and tracking is Pentax major problems but IQ can no one beat. Have had D500 and Canon R5 but they are gone. Try AF-C plus Spot with 150-450 it will be great. 70-200 focus a bit faster but you have the 150-450. Just now sitting comparing Football shots from last week and K1-II are fantastic even if A74 is sharper cropping in but sharpness is not all to a picture.

Kobie This is nothing new with the K-3-111 that' why I have user 1 Autofocus S and user #2 autofocus C so I toggle between the two settings Sometimes the camera can be a pain using its advanced features

I took photos during beach volleyball of uniformed services in Poland in the city of "Przemyśl Fortress", using an old Pentax K10D digital camera with a CCD matrix. I set the focus to the center of the frame and track the movement, freeing the electronics from this function and using the so-called Zoom walk 16-85 and it works. In addition, you can set the focus at a specific point and when the object is in the focus range, the camera will release the shutter - this is an old trick of photographers taking photos of fast sports. You can also combine it with serial photos. I don't know if the K3 mark III has face tracking, because if so, it is only in live view and this can also be used to prevent the camera from losing the athlete's face. Unfortunately, Pentax K10D does not have this function./ Greetings from Poland from the city of "Przemyśl Fortress". Ps. I'm sorry but I don't speak English and I translate the text using Google Translator.

I did many sports for a number of years. Newspaper, AP. That was all film. It really boils down to ‘follow the ball’ and keep an eye out for human interest. I never used a motor drive - some did. But training your eye to read the moment is key. Shooting with a K1 II for football was frustrating. The K3 III works much better. Pentax needs some long telephotos in f2.8 for night sports. The high ISO performance of the K3 III is definitely excellent but every little bit helps.

Got some bangers in there. I love SLRs, but I definitely DO NOT miss them for action. I'm happy to relegate action to mirrorless. I get like a >90% hit rate - it just sticks where I want it. As to what I look for? Subject isolation via large aperture / F2.8 70-200. Eyes/ face in focus while swinging. Get right up to the fence - the telephoto lens will shoot between the links. Fill the frame with your subject, but leave enough room to see the ball inbound and outbound. Candid dugout shots- you can capture emotions through the chan link and do olit from a distance. Fun stuff 😁

Good info as always! Would a 70-200 f2.8 be a decent choice, or does the 55-300 do better because of the PLM speed? Had good luck with the 70-200 shooting indoor sports - figure skating, so much slower action than trying to catch baseball impact

..and I don't have a histogram on the LV screen and I don't know how to turn it on! :(

For capturing sports action here are some recommended settings: 1. **Shutter Speed**: Set your shutter speed to at least 1/500s or faster to freeze fast-paced sports action. For even faster moving subjects or in low light conditions, consider using a faster shutter speed like 1/1000s or higher. 2. **Aperture**: Use a wide aperture (lower f-stop number) to let in more light and achieve a shallower depth of field. This can help separate your subject from the background and create a more dynamic image. However, be mindful of maintaining a fast enough shutter speed to prevent motion blur. 3. **ISO**: Set your ISO to a level that allows for a fast enough shutter speed while maintaining image quality. Start at a low ISO (e.g., ISO 100 or 200) and increase it if needed to achieve proper exposure in low-light situations. 4. **Focus**: Use continuous autofocus (AF-C) mode to track moving subjects and ensure they remain in focus. Consider using the camera's predictive autofocus feature if available to help anticipate the subject's movements. 5. **Burst Mode**: Enable the camera's continuous shooting mode to capture a series of shots in quick succession. This can help increase your chances of capturing the decisive moment in fast-paced sports. 6. **Metering Mode**: Choose evaluative or matrix metering mode to ensure the camera properly exposes for the overall scene. Adjust exposure compensation as needed to compensate for challenging lighting conditions. 7. **White Balance**: Set the white balance to match the lighting conditions or use auto white balance for convenience. You can also experiment with different white balance settings to achieve the desired color temperature. 8. **Image Stabilization**: If your lens or camera has image stabilization, consider enabling it to reduce the effects of camera shake, especially when shooting handheld at slower shutter speeds. Remember to practice with these settings before the actual sports event to familiarize yourself with your camera's capabilities and ensure you're prepared to capture the action effectively. Adjust settings as necessary based on the specific sport, lighting conditions, and your creative vision.

I was the off-road racing correspondent for Inside Motorcycles magazine circa 2007-2011. I did it using Pentax cameras along with Pentax and Tokina lenses starting with a K10-D and later a K7. I got front pages, whole pages and even double page spreads. I'd say 95% of the shots were in full manual. My K3-II would have been a definite advantage for the added resolution, dynamic range, and image quality: the K3-III even more so, but it's not really about the hardware (except maybe the lenses), more about developing the specific skills for the target sport.

Great video! The price has now come down a tiny bit. People often say, "if you're already invested in Pentax lenses." But I think if you consider the price of the lenses, even if you aren't buying them new, then I think the total system cost is a lot lower than the competition. I could get a Canon or Sony body for a bit cheaper with comparable core features, but anything that would compete with my 300 prime would cost thousands of dollars more.

Just got my K3-iii, thanks for the video, now I realize I should set up "macro" and "bird" user modes so I'll have different smart functions, otherwise I would have just kept switching between TAv and M like on my K-70 :)

I’ve always wondered why this lens on Pentax does not get the same love as it does on other mounts

Kobie, the GPS numbers are degrees and minutes (minutes of arc), not feet. I know it's the same symbol, but it's 1/60 of a degree instead. This feature is almost enough for me to upgrade to a K3/III. It would be very handy for wildlife work.

does it come with the ipod? am thinking of buying this in 2024. is it worth it, cos i saw a very neat one,

I agree the 3-III does great HDRs for landscapes with wide brightness range, though not as good as LightRoom or PS. I use them for quick pics I don’t want to have to do any real post processing on

The only issue I have had connecting image sync with my k3iii was due to me forgetting to turn off VPN on my phone... It's so much more useable than the old flucard I have for my old k3.

What if I use a Blackberry phone and Palm Pilot with my Amiga desktop? 😂😂😂😂 Seriously, using the AE-L as a wi-fi button is genius. I’d use Image Sync a lot more if I didn’t have to fiddle w menus

Can it look at the modules in a hybrid?

They don't fit any other car.. That's not true, it's a bullshit. They fit any other car with same diameter and height. But yeah, i wouldn't put them on any car, even on my saab. I suffered enough with same NGK, and replaced them with Denso IQ20TT.

That’s amazing. Thank you. Wish I had your brains Kobie.

The oddity for me getting to use image sync was needing Bluetooth on. That surprised me. Why Bluetooth has to be on puzzled me and I still do not understand. The camera can overheat here in Houston while running, but image sync does work.

I dunno how Canon/Nikon/Sony platforms are now, but back in the time of 2018-19, image sync is way better than the Sony counterpart